e, and at length I recognised in them the wonder-buildings of
ancient times, the Pyramids; far behind them rises the chain of
mountains, or rather hills, of Mokattam.

Evening was closing in when we at length arrived at Bulak, the
harbour of Cairo. If we could have landed at once, I might,
perhaps, have reached the town itself this evening; as the harbour
is, however, always over-crowded with vessels, the captain is often
compelled to wait for an hour before he can find a place to moor his
craft. By the time I could disembark it had already grown quite
dark, and the town-gates were shut. I was thus obliged to pass the
night on board.

The journey from Atfe to Cairo had occupied two days and a half.
This passage had been one of the most interesting, although the heat
became more and more oppressive, and the burning winds of the desert
were sometimes wafted over to us. The highest temperature at midday
was 36 degrees, and in the shade from 24 to 25 degrees Reaumur. The
sky was far less beautiful and clear than in Syria; it was here
frequently overcast with white clouds.

CHAPTER XV.

Cairo--Quarrel with the captain--Rapacity of the beggars--The
custom-house--The consulate--Aspect of Cairo--Narrow and crowded
streets--Costumes--The mad-house--Disgusting exhibition--Joseph's
well--Palace of Mehemet Ali--Dates--Mosques at Cairo--Excursion to
the pyramids of Gizeh--Gizeh--Eggs hatched by artificial heat--
Ascent of the pyramids--The sphynx--Return to Cairo.

August 22d.

The aspect of this great Egyptian metropolis is not nearly so
imposing as I had fancied it to be; its situation is too flat, and
from on board we can only discern scattered portions of its extended
area. The gardens skirting the shore are luxuriant and lovely.

At my debarcation, and on the road to the consulate, I met with
several adventures, which I relate circumstantially, trifling as
they may appear, in order to give a hint as to the best method of
dealing with the people here.

At the very commencement I became involved in a dispute with the
captain of the vessel. I had still to pay him three dollars and a
half, and gave him four dollars, in the expectation that he would
return me my change. This, however, he refused to do, and persisted
in keeping the half-dollar. He said it should be divided as
backsheesh among the crew; but I am sure they would have seen
nothing of it. Luckily, however, he was stupid enough not to put
t