he money in his pocket, but kept it open in his hand. I quickly
snatched a coin from him, and put it into my pocket, explaining to
him at the same time that he should not have it back until he had
given me my change, adding that I would give the men a gratuity
myself. He shouted and stormed, and kept on asking for the money.
I took no heed of him, but continued quietly packing up my things.
Seeing, at length, that nothing was to be done with me, he gave me
back my half-dollar; whereupon we parted good friends. This affair
concluded, I had to look about for a couple of asses; one for
myself, and another for my luggage. If I had stepped ashore I
should have been almost torn in pieces by contending donkey-drivers,
each of whom would have lugged me in a different direction. I
therefore remained quietly for a time in my cabin, until the drivers
ceased to suspect that any one was there. In the meantime I had
been looking upon the shore from the cabin-window, and speculating
upon which animal I should take; then I quickly rushed out, and
before the proprietors of the long-eared steeds were aware of my
intention, I had seized one by the bridle and pointed to another.
This concluded the matter at once; for the proprietors of the chosen
animals defended me from the rest, and returned with me to the boat
to carry my baggage.

A fellow came up and arranged my little trunk on the back of the
ass. For this trifling service I gave him a piastre; but observing
that I was alone, he probably thought he could soon intimidate me
into giving whatever he demanded. So he returned me my piastre, and
demanded four. I took the money, and told him (for fortunately he
understood a little Italian) that if he felt dissatisfied with this
reward he might accompany me to the consulate, where his four
piastres would be paid so soon as it appeared that he had earned
them. He shouted and blustered, just as the captain had done; but I
remained deaf, and rode forward towards the custom-house. Then he
came down to three piastres, then to two, and finally said he would
be content with one, which I threw to him. When I reached the
custom-house, hands were stretched out towards me from all sides; I
gave something to the chief person, and let the remaining ones
clamour on. When, after experiencing these various annoyances, I
rode on towards the town, a new obstacle arose. My Arab guide
inquired whither he should conduct me. I endeavoured in vain