o a passage leading to a large yard. We
could have fancied ourselves transported by magic to the scene of
one of the fantastic "Arabian Nights," for all the glory of the East
seemed spread before our delighted gaze. In the midst of the
courtyard, which was paved with large stones, a large reservoir,
with a sparkling fountain, spread a delightful coolness around.
Orange and lemon trees dipped their golden fruit into the crystal
flood; while at the sides flower-beds, filled with fragrant roses,
balsams, oleanders, etc., extended to the stairs leading to the
reception-room. Every thing seemed to have been done that could
contribute to ornament this large and lofty apartment, which opened
into the courtyard. Swelling divans, covered with the richest
stuffs, lined the walls, which, tastefully ornamented with mirrors
and painted and sculptured arabesques, and further decked with
mosaic and gilding, displayed a magnificence of which I could not
have formed a conception. In the foreground of this fairy apartment
a jet of water shot upwards from a marble basin. The floor was also
of marble, forming beautiful pictures in the most varied colours;
and over the whole scene was spread that charm so peculiar to the
Orientals, a charm combining the tasteful with the rich and
gorgeous. The apartment in which the women dwell, and where they
receive their more confidential visitors, are similar to the one I
have just described, except that they are smaller, less richly
furnished, and completely open in front. The remaining apartments
also look into the courtyard; they are simply, but comfortably and
prettily arranged.

All the houses of the Orientals are similar to this one, except that
the apartments of the women open into another courtyard than those
of the men.

After examining and admiring every thing to our heart's content, we
returned to our hospitable convent. This evening the clerical
gentlemen entertained us. A tolerably nice meal, with wine and good
bread, restored our exhausted energies to a certain extent.

At Beyrout we were quite alarmed at the warnings we received
concerning the numbers of certain creeping things we should find
here in the bedsteads. I therefore betook myself to bed with many
qualms and misgivings; but I slept undisturbed, both on this night
and on the following one.

CHAPTER XII.

The bazaar at Damascus--The khan--Grotto of St. Paul--Fanaticism of
the inhabitants--Departure from