, where I found neither a
horse nor any thing else prepared for our departure. It is
necessary to look calmly upon these irregularities here in the East,
where it is esteemed a fortunate occurrence if the horses and mukers
(as the drivers of horses and donkeys are called) are only a few
hours behind their time. Thus our horses made their appearance at
half-past five instead of at four, the hour for which they had been
ordered. Our baggage was soon securely fixed, for we left the
greater portion of our effects at Joppa, and took with us only what
was indispensably necessary.

As the clock struck six we rode out of the gate of Joppa, and
immediately afterwards reached a large well with a marble basin.
Near places of this description a great number of people are always
congregated, and more women and girls are seen than appear
elsewhere.

The dress of females belonging to the lower orders consists of a
long blue garment fastened round the throat, and reaching below the
ankle. They completely cover the head and face, frequently without
even leaving openings for the eyes. Some females, on the other
hand, go abroad with their faces totally uncovered. These are,
however, exceptional cases.

The women carry their water-pitchers on their head or shoulder, as
their ancestors have done for thousands of years, in the manner we
find represented in the oldest pictures. But unfortunately I could
discover neither the grace in their gait, the dignity in their
movements, nor the physical beauty in their appearance, that I had
been led to expect. On the contrary, I found squalor and poverty
more prevalent than I had thought possible. We rode on amid the
gardens, every moment meeting a little caravan of camels.
Immediately beyond the gardens we descry the fruitful valley of
Sharon, extending more than eight miles in length, and to a still
greater distance in breadth. Here and there we find villages built
on hills, and the whole presents the appearance of an extremely
fertile and well-populated region. In all directions we saw large
herds of sheep and goats; the latter generally of a black or brown
colour, with long pendent ears.

The foreground of the picture is formed by the Judaean mountains, a
range apparently composed of a number of barren rocks.

A ride of two hours through this plain, which is less sandy than the
immediate neighbourhood of Joppa, brought us to a mosque, where we
made halt for a quarter of an hour a