t possible that these venerable trunks
existed at the time when Jesus passed his last night at Gethsemane
in prayer and supplication. As this tree, however, propagates
itself, these trees may be sprouts from the ancient stems. The
space around the roots has been strengthened with masonry, to afford
a support to these patriarchal trunks, and the eight trees are
surrounded by a wall three or four feet in height. No layman may
enter this spot unaccompanied by a priest, on pain of
excommunication; it is also forbidden to pluck a single leaf. The
Turks also hold these trees in reverence, and would not injure one
of them.
Close by is the spot where the three disciples are said to have
slept during the night of their Master's agony. We were shown marks
on two rocks, said to have been footsteps of these apostles! The
footsteps of the third disciple we could not discover. A little to
one side is the place where Judas betrayed his Master.
The little church containing the grave of the Virgin Mary stands
near the "Grotto of Anguish." We descend by a broad marble flight
of fifty steps to the tomb, which is also used as an altar. About
the middle of the staircase are two niches with altars; within these
are deposited the bones of the Virgin Mary's parents and of St.
Joseph. This chapel belongs to the Greeks.
From the foot of the Mount of Olives to its summit is a walk of
three quarters of an hour. The whole mountain is desert and
sterile; nothing is found growing upon it but olives; and from the
summit of this mountain our Saviour ascended into heaven. The spot
was once marked by a church, which was afterwards replaced by a
mosque: even this building is now in ruins. Only twelve years ago
a little chapel, of very humble appearance, was erected here; it now
stands in the midst of old walls; but here again a footprint of our
Lord is shown and reverenced. On this stone it is asserted that He
stood before He was taken up into heaven. Not far off, we are shown
the place where the fig-tree grew that Jesus cursed, and the field
where Judas hanged himself.
One afternoon I visited many of these sites, in company with Count
Berchtold. As we were climbing about the ruins near the mosque, a
sturdy goatherd, armed with a formidable bludgeon, came before us,
and demanded "backsheesh" (a gift, or an alms) in a very peremptory
tone. Neither of us liked to take out our purse, for, fear the
insolent beggar should snatch it
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