ing our horses
beneath a shady tree, we entered the coppice on the right: a walk
of about a quarter of a mile brought us to the "Tower of the Forty
Martyrs," which was converted into a church during the time of the
Knights Templars, and now serves as a dwelling for dervishes. It is
a complete ruin, and I could scarcely believe that it was still
habitable.

We made no stay at Ramda, a place only remarkable for a convent
built, it is said, on the site of Joseph of Arimathea's house.

The Syrian convents are built more like fortresses than like
peaceful dwellings. They are usually surrounded by strong and lofty
walls, furnished with loopholes for cannon. The great gate is kept
continually closed, and barred and bolted from within for greater
security; a little postern is opened to admit visitors, but even
this is only done in time of peace, and when there is no fear of the
plague.

At length, towards noon, we approached the mountains of Judaea.
Here we must bid farewell to the beautiful fruitful valley and to
the charming road, and pursue our journey through a stony region,
which we do not pass without difficulty.

At the entrance of the mountain-chain lies a miserable village; near
this village is a well, and here we halted to refresh ourselves and
water our poor horses. It was not without a great deal of trouble
and some expense that we managed to obtain a little water; for all
the camels, asses, goats, and sheep from far and wide were collected
here, eagerly licking up every drop of the refreshing element they
could secure. Little did I think that I should ever be glad to
quench my thirst with so disgusting a beverage as the muddy, turbid,
and lukewarm water they gave me from this well. We once more filled
our leathern bottles, and proceeded with fresh courage up the stony
path, which quickly became so narrow, that without great difficulty
and danger we could not pass the camels which we frequently met.
Fortunately a few camels out of every herd are generally provided
with bells, so that their approach is heard at some distance, and
one can prepare for them accordingly.

The Bedouins and Arabs generally wear no garment but a shirt barely
reaching to the knee. Their head is protected by a linen cloth, to
which a thick rope wound twice round the head gives a very good
effect. A few have a striped jacket over their shirt, and the rich
men or chiefs frequently wear turbans.

Our road now continues to wind