l centre and the brilliant capital of the world. It was
even more difficult to realize that the country which now prohibits the
importation of foreign books and papers was at one time the patron of
art, literature, and learning, the collector of great libraries of
illuminated manuscripts, theological discourses, and legal documents.
But that was centuries ago.

Thursday morning ushered in a bright, clear, cool day. We were up early,
eager for sight-seeing, and little boats soon carried us to the custom
house pier on the Galata side. Open carriages drawn by wiry Turkish
horses and driven by Turkish drivers were there in readiness to carry us
across the Golden Horn to explore the sights of Stamboul. As our
carriages rattled over the plank pontoon bridge with its drawbridge in
the center, we passed through a crowd of people more varied as to
nationality and costume than can be seen at almost any other place on
the globe. The Turks, of course, predominated, their nationality being
indicated by the national head-gear,--the red fez. The wealthier Turks
wore the English style of clothing and the red fez. The costumes of the
other classes varied according to their occupation. On the bridge as
our driver guided his team through the throng, we saw Turkish soldiers
in blue uniforms and red fez; Moslems wearing a green sash around the
fez to indicate that they had performed a pilgrimage to Mecca;
stately-looking bearded Greek priests in black robes and peculiar hats;
Nubians with black glistening skins and tattooed faces; Moslem priests
with pure white turbans, and Moslem priests with high green turbans;
Russian or Hungarian peasants with coats of sheep skin, the fleecy sides
of which were turned inward; Dervishes in brown mantles, and high-coned
brown hats without brims; Hebrews in long yellow coats and little curls
at the sides of their heads; Turks in gold embroidered trousers and
jackets and long flowing blue sleeves; Turkish women with faces closely
veiled, and negro women who concealed their features behind white veils
in the same manner as the Turkish women.

[Illustration: A STRUCTURE DIFFERING IN DESIGN FROM ANY OTHER CHRISTIAN
TEMPLE.]

"Those cakes looked so good, I was almost tempted to take one off the
tray," said one of the occupants of our carriage, as a peddler carrying
on his head a table filled with cakes and pastry passed so closely that
his wares were within reach.

"Oh, how could you think of doing such a t