e weighty to the _muchachas_, who
repaid me with kindly wishes.

With the fresh air of morning we left Madelena, and kept for some miles
along the borders of a broad, shallow lake, of the same name, until the
road diverged to the right, when we were obliged to forsake the good
ground, and level country, for tedious labor, over mule paths and rugged
mountains.

At Muchatilti we passed some ninety soldiers, horse and foot, barefoot,
conveying a pack of rascally-looking thieves, and a small field piece.
They were attended by twice this number of women and children, who at
times relieved their liege lords of muskets or equipments, with the
weight of camp utensils on their heads. On questioning a sergeant
belonging to the detachment, he told me they generally marched four
leagues a day, and in many places were obliged to throw the gun from its
carriage, and transport each part separately for leagues at a time. This
person also assured me, that he had served at the battle of Buena Vista,
and with his company of infantry had marched twenty-eight leagues in
forty-eight hours, with but a pint of parched Indian corn, and a quart
of water per man! So far as marching, and powers of enduring privation
go, I presume the Mexicans can do as much, if not more, than other
nations. They are not deficient in courage either, when well officered
and led--some of their bloody internal struggles attest it--but with us
they proved sadly deficient in both.

I have but little knowledge of what constitutes the proper field for
extended military operations; but from a few indifferent ideas picked up
in other countries, as well as in this trip through Mexico, I think I
may hazard the belief that in the line of march from Guadalajara towards
the Pacific, there are seldom met with positions adapted to the
operations of large bodies of troops, and save in the vicinity of large
towns, an army of any magnitude would find difficulty in procuring
subsistence; for the country is thinly populated, and but little land
under cultivation, and though I should judge not totally impassible for
artillery, it certainly seems an impracticable route for a numerous
train, or heavy guns.

Making no longer stay at the brightly-stained inn of Muchatilti than
was requisite to swallow a cup of coffee, and thrash a filthy Indian for
being caught _flagrante delictu_--stealing a bit of silver from my
bridle--we traversed the table-land beyond, and began zigzaging through