ced in the epithet of Barnes,
and I beg leave to endorse him for any other tourist. Mr. B., in our
ignorance, assured us that gentlemen ever indulged in strong waters
before descending, after inspecting the crater, "sweetening the very
edge of doom," as it were, and also upon mounting upward; suggesting
that the guide was treated in like manner, and as an invariable rule,
all ullages were confided to his care. Mr. B. also gratified us with
many remarkable narratives concerning the native population.

We had a dreadfully fatiguing ascent to the upper regions, somewhat
alleviated by the kind services of the calibash men, who butted us up
the most difficult steeps with their heads, when, after gasping an hour
from exhaustion, our appetites returned with renewed vigor, and we made
another meal on _luau_ turkeys. We were, moreover, comfortably housed,
and fortunately, for towards nightfall, the wind arose from the great
Mauna Loa and drove the light chilling rain in loud gusts and meanings
over the plain. During the night we heard the muttering throes of the
volcano, and at intervals in the darkness, a bright sheet of fire would
leap up from the black abyss, so intensely vivid as to paint a brilliant
_flame-bow_ in the thick mist that crept along the crater's sides. There
was a perfume of sulphur and nitre, that seemed to spring from the very
floor of our habitation, but far too fagged out to heed it, we were
soon wrapt in forgetfulness, or what was better, good warm cloaks and
serapas.

The day broke cold and stormy, so we huddled on flannel shirts, and paid
a hasty visit to some enormous sulphur banks that were steaming actively
near the verge of the crater. Beautifully colored crystals were
profusely found on the fissures of wide steam cracks and yawning chasms;
then there were fearful dark holes, like chimneys, as indeed they were,
evolving strong puffs of sulphur, that kept flurrying and eddying
around, and when a whiff chanced to take one in the nose or mouth, it
quite gave a choking taste of Uncle Nicholas's abode.

We regarded the whole affair as a special providence intended for the
Hawaiians, who are all, more or less--men, women and children--afflicted
with the itch, and if they could only be induced to give the steam a
fair trial, there could be no skepticism upon the beneficial results
that would ensue.

This was all there was to be seen or wondered at--returning to the straw
hut, we ate more _luau_ turkeys-