covery of the group, in sad contrast, so far as the
humanizing influences of Christianity and civilization extend, to the
benefits the pioneers of religion have shed upon the other islands of
these Indian Archipelagoes.
During the few years the French, in their rage for colonization in the
Pacific, have occupied Nukeheva, they have encountered great
difficulties in keeping these unruly natives within the bounds of
moderation. For a length of time they were continually on the _qui vive_
to guard against treachery and attack; of late, the islanders had been
quiet, understanding that the French, who held the harbor under what was
termed a forcible proprietorship, were shortly to depart; and, indeed,
as a preparatory step, some of the government buildings had already been
taken down and sent to Tahiti. Still there seems no reason why the
Marquesans should have evinced this bitter hostility, for it was
conceded that they have been treated with great lenience and
forbearance.
As a harbor of refuge, in time of war, Anna Maria is perfectly
safe--accessible and defensible; but from the natural indolence of the
natives, it is destitute of supplies in sufficient quantities to feed
even the few whale-ships touching here during the year.
The garrison was composed of two hundred and fifty _Infanterie de la
Marine_, maintained, no doubt, at considerable expense, and for what
present or perspective benefit it would be difficult to surmise. The
Governor was M. Fournier, the commander, also, of a fine corvette, the
Galathee, moored near the shore battery. He was all prepared to give us
a warm reception, in case our ship had worn the cross of St. George at
her peak, instead of a Yankee gridiron, for they were hourly
anticipating a rupture with England, consequent upon the French
revolution.
Going on shore, I made the acquaintance of a number of polite officers
belonging to the garrison, and had also the pleasure of meeting an old
friend, a handsome young Enseigne de Vaisseau. "Ah!" said he, "would you
believe, I've been here amid these beasts of savages eighteen months.
_Mon Dieu!_ Such a _monotone diablement horrible_! And do you remember
all France was talking of Du Petit Thours and this Paradise of
Polynesia, and I, like a fool, was dazzled, too! _Sacre!
Voila!_"--pointing to a group of copper-tinted and tatooed imps
reclining under a banana tree devouring raw fish, and sucking _poee_
with their filthy fingers--"and regard me
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