the Islands and
Callao, the discovery of the El Dorado of California had thrown the
entire community into a state of feverish excitement, which was
augmented by every fresh arrival. Ships touching here, no matter whither
bound, or for what intent, were either bought before their anchors were
down, or chartered for passengers or freight. Day by day vessels sailed,
loaded high up the shrouds with any articles of merchandise that could
hastily be thrown on board. The city was drained of wares and goods of
every description; merchants, clerks, artisans and mechanics were
hurrying, as fast as sails could bear them, to the swamps and sands of
the Sacramento. Fortunes were made in a minute, and it only appeared
necessary to purchase a ship and cargo at any price, and the day or hour
after be offered twice the money for the bargain. One merchant actually
paid twenty thousand hard dollars for the information contained in a
letter from San Francisco--a more valuable missive was probably never
penned. The mania was equally violent throughout all classes of the
community--natives, foreigners, men, women, and children.

We mariners were merely lookers on, having neither cash nor commodities.
Some of us talked of deserting, and scratching a little fortune of gold
dust with our several digits; others of resigning, and seeking employ in
the merchant service; but in the end we bore the good fortune of mankind
around us, with philosophical equanimity, and remained contented with
our lot.

Notwithstanding this _auri sacra fames_, the same generous hospitality
awaited us, at the hands of our countrymen, as of old, and we passed the
time delightfully.

The rides around Valparaiso are almost destitute of interest; for many
leagues the main roads lead over dry and hilly ground, with no relief
from their dullness, except an occasional glimpse from some more
elevated ridge, of the broad Pacific or the shining snow-capped
Cordilleras far in the interior. There are neither forests nor grasses,
nor yet running water. Even in the most secluded valleys, the herbage is
pale and withered, and vegetation stunted.

Excellent horses are easily found; and after passing over the paved
streets at a slow gait, to escape lynx-eyed _serenos_, ever on the watch
to recover a two-dollar fine from strangers for fast riding, you may
then, at early morn, before the breeze stirs the fine, choking dust, or
in the evening, when the high winds have expended their r