although _passee_ person, who presided at
table d'hote in _grand tenu_, and served coffee and _italia_ for
_chasse_, with a little dessert of _monte_, if called for in the
evening, at a side-table. Underneath the Fonda were billiard saloons and
cafes, with warm baths adjoining. This establishment was cared for by a
vivacious gentleman, extremely popular with navy men, named Senor
Zuderel. I would advise all homeless wanderers journeying towards Lima
to seek lodgings at this Caravanserai. I was pleased myself, and shall
ever bear Monsieur and Madame Morin in agreeable recollection, for a
correct knowledge of the world, tolerably well-served dinners, expensive
wines, and a just appreciation of the _sous entendu_.

It was my intention to have made a hasty visit to Churillos, a small
fishing village on the sea coast, where, at certain seasons, all the
world resort for bathing and gaming--both amusements carried on day and
night without cessation; but finding the time approaching for our
departure, after spending eight days at Lima, one afternoon I buried my
shoulders within a glaring red poncho--and was warned by Zuderel "not to
carry much money, for fear of the ladrones," which I considered purely a
supererogatory piece of advice, as any economical person may convince
himself after a few days visit only!--_El que bebe de las pilas se queda
en Lima_--He who drinks of the fountains will never leave Lima, is a
favorite proverb. Inasmuch as I had only sparingly indulged in the
delicious waters of the city, save when mingled with Bordeaux and pure
blocks of ice brought from the Andes, I cannot be said to have entirely
destroyed the truth of the adage; so, trotting leisurely through plaza
and streets--invoking a blessing from Our Lady--I pursued my ride beyond
the gates, steering for Callao. It was thus I departed from the
"Paradise of women, the purgatory of men, and hell of jackasses!"

We sailed for Valparaiso.

FOOTNOTE:

[8] This is the same portrait from which the engraving in Prescott's
Peru is taken, but the latter bears but a faint resemblance to the
original.

CHAPTER LV.

We found Valparaiso very much improved since our first visit, more so,
in fact, than would be generally believed for a Creole town. Streets had
been newly paved and extended, whole squares of fine warehouses, and
long rows of dwellings completed; all tending, with a rapid increase of
population, to make the port most flourishing. As in