f
biscuits, peaches, "and a dish of ripe strawberries, all smothered in
cream!" What a perfume! "Hand over the _alforgas_, those pockets
attached to saddle housings. Oblige me, sir, by guarding this plethoric
napkin of sandwiches! Stop! here's another; don't let anybody take even
a bite until the Senora gives the word! What is this; a bottle of Xeres,
as I'm a sinner--claret, too! _Ave Maria!_ Get water somebody, and let
me show you the art, acquired by long practice, of pulling a cork
without a screw. There! click! click! crack! Cleverly done, eh? Don't
cut your delicate fingers, Senorita! Are we ready?--we are, and almost
frantic." The time flits on pleasure's wings--the shadows from the
crests of the surrounding heights are darkening the glen--the
strawberries and sandwiches are all gone, and the bottles are dying
marines.

"Come, girls," say the Senoras, "we must be in time for dinner.
Caballeros you will dine with us?--they never forget that--we shall
dance in the evening, but not too late--to-morrow is Sunday." Now hurrah
for the _carrera_--race. Be under no apprehensions, my friends, when you
see those slight forms, with streaming tresses and dresses, flying by
leap and bound over the narrow pathways, rocky descents and
water-courses!--have a care to your own horse, never mind your fair
companions--their sure-footed steeds would race blindfolded, and, I
doubt not, snap their legs short off, rather than injure the gentle
beings who so easily guide them! We soon reach the environs of the
city, and with horses all in a foam, pace sedately through the streets,
towards the terraced residences.

The society of natives and foreigners is quite distinct in Valparaiso,
and general re-unions only take place at the monthly Philharmonic balls.
Those we attended were very elegant and select assemblies, with a large
proportion of beautiful women: all danced with charming grace, and were
most becomingly attired with all the exquisite taste and refinement of
French fashions; and with a fine, brilliantly-lighted saloon, excellent
orchestra, the white fluttering dresses of the women, gayly contrasting
with the gleaming lace and bullion of hosts of officers from foreign
ships of war, it made altogether as inspiriting and magnificent a
display as can be found in any part of the world.

The natives are seen with even more attractions in their social circles.
The _tertulia_ is ever an impromptu affair, and nothing is more
calculate