was far ahead, also; or at least so far as creature comforts
extend--aided by a good hotel, dinners, and pleasant rides in the
vicinity.

The lanes and avenues were so clouded with fine red dust, that walking
any distance was out of the question. Foreigners have many cool,
matted-straw-built dwellings on the sea beach, and there are numbers of
pleasant cottages near the suburbs; but prettier than all, is one
secluded country house, a little way from Lahaina, closely embowered in
foliage, with a trickling rivulet at the door-way, that would make a
retreat for a princess.

The Governor of Maui was James Young, a half-breed, or _happa houri_,
and descended from the English seaman mentioned by Vancouver. He had
visited England, and spoke the language perfectly, although with the
tone and expression of a common sailor. In person he was large--with a
pleasant face--much lighter than the natives generally, and from his
conversation he appeared to be a man of excellent practical sense. His
residence was within the fort--a large square enclosure--constructed of
rough red coral rocks, banked up fifteen feet with earth, and mounting
an oddly assorted battery of some thirty pieces of artillery, of all
sorts of carriages and calibre--long, short, and mediums; they command
the usual anchorage, and no doubt do very well to prevent any acts of
violence from merchant ships; but it is a question, if at the second
discharge of shot they do not tumble to pieces. There were a company of
Hawaiian troops to man this fortress, who were well uniformed, and
looked as well as Kanakas, or any other savages who have been accustomed
half their lives to go naked can look, when their natural ease of motion
is cramped by European clothing.

Governor Young very sagaciously removed all restrictions from the
pleasures of our crew, who had liberty on shore--leaving it a matter of
supererogation to bribe the Kaikos, whose integrity is never above
suspicion. However, there was no liquor to be bought, but Jack got very
comfortably drunk on Cologne water: completely exhausting the large
stocks of a long-tailed Chinaman, in whose possession it had for a
lengthened period lain an unsaleable drug. Even after it had been all
sold, so great was the demand, that an old salt threatened to take the
Chinese by the heels and snap him like a coach-whip, in case he did not
produce another bottle of "tooloone" water, without more palaver.

One evening, during our visit