the broad ocean," or that he might have been a retired pirate.
He received me very hospitably, ordered a lithe black-eyed little girl
of ten years not to go to the Iglesia until _El Capitan_ had made a
breakfast, and pointing to a bedstead in the sala, upon which was
tightly stretched a side of dressed leather, desired me to repose until
he could procure horses.

From my position I had a clear view around the Plaza--crowds of
gaily-dressed paisanos were moving from house to house, or thronging the
bough-built booths and little shops, all strewed beneath the lofty
trees, sipping dulces, making purchases, eating fruit, smoking or
gaming. Presently the large bell began tolling for high mass; like
magic, at the first stroke of the iron tongue, traffic ceased, the monte
was discontinued, the dealer putting by money and cards; half eaten
fruit was thrown upon the ground, children ceased squalling, caracolling
steeds were reined sharply back by riders crossing the square, the noise
of balls and glasses in the Billar and Tienda was silenced, hats were
reverently doffed, cigarillos dropped, and the hum and murmur of many
voices had passed away. Then, as the little chimes with noisy throats
were bursting forth in clanging peals, the whole concourse of persons
that filled the plaza went moving with uncovered heads, sombreros in
hand, toward the church, and now the organ rose in solemn strains,
embers were swinging, multitudes of tapers were twinkling within the
nave, like stars in the firmament, while hundreds were kneeling in piety
and awe before the shrines they worshipped. In no portion of the world
can there be found more true respect for religion or real reverence,
than in some parts of Mexico, and the truthfulness and simplicity with
which they conduct the beautiful ceremonials of the catholic church, is
not a flattering commentary upon the indifferent professions of more
enlightened countries.

In witnessing this impressive scene, I sighed to become a convert, and
indeed I felt convinced that if I had had the persuasive lips exerted
for my conversion, that pertained to the penserosa face and Murillo eyes
of my host's graceful little daughter, I should have thrown away the
sword for the cross on the spot. She was standing with half raised eyes,
and an impatient expression, wondering very naturally, no doubt, why the
gringo did not swallow the eggs and milk she had prepared by her sire's
commands--_Quiere usted mas Senor?_-