ocolate, and in
turn favored him with late news from the capital.

Departing from Rosario, which is nearly thirty leagues from the Port, I
came on at a flying gallop to the old Presidio; then tarrying for
breakfast with General Anaya, I again continued with all speed to Urias,
where my horse's heels, and my own anxiety, outstripped the broken wind
of the guide's, and I never drew rein before reaching the Marismas of
Mazatlan. The tide was very high, and I was almost forced to swim; but
encouraged by a cavalcade of gentlemen on the opposite shore, I
straggled through, and was greeted by hosts of acquaintances, who, by
mere accident and fun, had proposed to meet me on the road. I feel
assured that I never shall be so handsomely escorted again; and what
added to the eclat of my arrival was, that upon entering the crowded
plaza a polite commissary ordered the band to play "Hail Columbia!" and
I was nothing loth to hide my blushes, travel-stained garments, and
jaded horse, from the admiring populace, and seek refuge within the
residence of the Governor.

Thus terminated my rough notes and jolts in a Mexican saddle, after a
journey of near twenty-five hundred miles, mostly on horseback; and the
last one hundred and twelve leagues from Tepic performed in fifty-three
hours, which was said to be the quickest trip on record. I was happy
that the journey was finished; and although I experienced no subsequent
fatigue, and my frame was much stronger, yet it is an undertaking that I
should not be anxious to attempt again.

When a gentleman travels in Mexico, he goes provided with beds and
baggage on pack mules, and half a dozen attendants at least, armed to
the teeth, and ready to do battle when occasion requires. In my case it
was different: at all times hurried, with at best but indifferent
beasts--riding night and day together--never meeting a person on the
roads without a mutual fumbling in the holsters for pistols, not
knowing whether in raising the hand to the _sombrero_, it is intended to
salute or shoot you, as friend or foe; yet, the provinces of the
Republic that I traversed were out of the beaten track of tourists, with
portfolios and poodles--a country where one is _per force_ obliged to
rough it a little; and where in the first essay, as in my case, the
novelty and excitement attending fresh scenes, varied scenery, strange
forms, manners and habits, more than balanced the fatigue, insecurity
and annoyances of the jour