or making all preparations for the journey.
Each was provided with a _kanaka_ as a sort of body-servant to take
charge of extra luggage and wardrobe, stowed in two huge calabashes,
with the half of other shells laid over the round orifices on top, which
effectually shielded their contents from the weather: they were then
slung by a net work of bark braid to each end of a short pole, like a
pair of scales, over the swarthy shoulders of our valets. There were
full half-a-dozen more fitted with the like contrivances filled with
edibles. All were sent off at daylight, while we remained to a
delightful breakfast of fresh water fatted mullets, new eggs, and
butter. Horses were then brought forward, and attended by a guide, we
moved in direction of the south end of the island. In an hour we had
lost sight of the ocean, left the pretty, "dim o'er arching groves" of
Hilo, and struck a narrow pathway over smooth undulating masses of
vitreous lava, just as it lay cooled from the lips of some remote
boiling crater, whose overlapping iron waves had flowed from the regions
above, whilst the rankest ferns and vegetation blocked the route,
creeping and extending as far as the eye could span up the gradual
slopes of the mountains. It was certainly a dull, uninteresting
landscape. We pushed our way through these green fibrous barriers, with
nothing to diversify the monotony, save the course through a dismal
forest of ragged trees, laced and covered with impenetrable thickets of
vines and parasitical plants, only relieved by the pale green of the
candle nut and mighty leaves of an occasional banana tree; meeting,
perhaps, at every dreary league with a filthy, ill-constructed native
hut, filled with yet filthier occupants. From nearly every habitation we
had a volunteer or two in our train, so that, in the afternoon, when we
reached what is called the half-way house, there were enough followers
for an Indian army.

Our halting place was a well-built thatched dwelling, planted on a
little mound of lava, and fenced in by a living hedge of _ti_, whose
bare stems rose four feet from the ground, and then branched out in
spreading leaves, like plumes. Inside the building was a raised
platform, running the entire length of the room, resembling the pleasant
structures used as beds by soldiers in guard-rooms. Clean mats and
pillows were strewn upon it, and the remaining space of the apartment
was plentifully provided with tables, chairs, and crocke