ht risk a visit, without becoming sublimed in perspiration. Then the
vine-clad arbors of the Portuguese were our favorite resort, where we
killed time, devouring figs and grapes, or puffing cigarillos; the
evenings came cool and temperate, with never a cloud in the heavens; the
lassitude and languor of the sultry day gave place to more invigorating
influences, and we sauntered from casa to casa, wherever lights were
twinkling. The doncellas were seated on low stools beneath the leafy
awnings, whilst careful _amas_--house-keepers--were plying the needle or
tambour work within.

"Kiss your hands, senoritas." "Shall we dance this evening?" _Con mucho
gusto!_ cry they all in a breath. Aye! the Graces doubt them! who ever
knew a lithe young creole to turn her pretty toes away from whirling
waltz or contra-danza. "Where shall we dance?" At Lola's, or Mariana's,
or Ampara's--it matters not. "But the music?" Pshaw, you _gringo_! as if
those well-fingered old harps and guitars were not ready tuned for the
occasion, and the old night owls of musicians ever watchful, playing
around the girls, like pilot fishes about the sharks. _Vamanos pues!_
The well-known faces are shortly assembled in a neighbor's dwelling; the
listless, indolent air of morning has gone--at the first tinkle of the
harp, eyes are sparkling with rapture, and feet patting the floor, like
prisoned birds, only awaiting the harmonising crash of the little
orchestra to be in motion. _Contra-danza!_ shrieks the old leader. Two
lines are formed--swinging gracefully to and fro, figures are changing,
hands clasping and thrilling, arms are twining and winding, until the
different bands are wound into beautiful and panting groups, when the
music pauses a moment--hands fall, and to be convinced that our angelic
partners have not wings, each seizes his fair companion around the
waist, and away we spin in the waltz.

In return for the nightly _tertulias_ on shore, we gave them a little
ball on board the frigate--the quarter-deck was gaily dressed and
bedizzened with parti-colored bunting, flags, chandeliers of bayonets
and other nautical ornaments; but in the absence of any marketable
matter, the supper-table below presented more variegated hues than the
ball room itself; being all lights, glass, fancifully carved melons and
dulces. However, they had capital music by the German Confederation, led
by Peter the Greek--dancing until midnight--the old ladies were allowed
to puff