d. The officer on guard informed us that the troops had, some
weeks before, surprised and captured a number of the Ladrons, near
Tequilla, and sixteen had already been executed, with a choice reserve
of nine more that were to be shot on the morrow; all of which impressed
me as extremely wise and judicious measures.

We went jogging along, having no change of beasts, for I had bought a
stout spotted roadster, called by the natives _pinto_--painted--but by
me Circo, because of his resemblance to those variegated quadrupeds
commonly exhibited in the Olympic sports of North America. Towards
daylight I took a nap beside a rivulet, and with the sun arose, and had
a delicious dip in the pure water--all the reasoning powers of my
ancient mozo to the contrary. And here I feel, in gratitude, called upon
to say a feeble word in praise of Mexican guides. They, indeed, should
be classed with _arrieros_! Their attentions are unceasing. I found them
honest, obliging, good-tempered, and possessing a certain share of local
and traditionary intelligence. They appeared to exist without sleep,
too; for whenever I laid down, I pointed to sun or stars, as a celestial
clock, to mark the hours and true to the dial--was always awakened at
the proper time, finding all ready for mounting, even to the spurs
attached to my feet. _Ha dornudo vd bien? quiere vd tantito de pan? una
capita de licor, pues!_ says your guide, producing the morsel of bread
or wine from the pouches of the saddle; but if neither be required, he
will roll, and light you a cigarillo, and if he sees you enjoying its
soothing flavor, he throws up his hand and exclaims, '_Ay! mi alma! esta
bueno!_ I've hit your fancy now;' and continues the route with renewed
good humor, apparently amply happy that he has effected something to
please you. Such a one was old Cypriano; besides having a fund of
marvellous legends--upon every stone cross or mountain pass in
Mexico--that very much relieved the occasional monotony and fatigue of
the journey.

The ride was dreadfully oppressive with heat and dust, besides fear of
robbers, which, after a by-no-means hearty breakfast on a water-melon I
had no stomach for. An hour past noon we drew up near the environs of
Tequilla, and remained sleeping by the side of the stream, until the
declining sun warned us to be off. The horses and myself had been washed
and fed, and with a cooler atmosphere, we toiled over bad roads, hilly,
rocky and dusty, when s