dside paths were little children astride large sheep,
completely caparisoned with saddles, housings, and bridles, trotting
away quite gaily with their innocent young burthens. We took a glance at
all this, and giving spur, rode into the city.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

The day previous to my departure from Mexico, I called at the Bureau of
Postes for a license, and made a report of what I considered collusion
betwixt the Ladrons and Cochero, near Queretaro. The office was
conducted by Mexicans; and the Administrador, quite a gentleman,--who
excused his servants at some length, by stating that the causes which
prevented them from disobeying the orders of the highwaymen were fears
of subsequent punishment, in case of escape at the time. Moreover, in
the present unsettled state of the country, crime had never been so
prevalent, in consequence of the few troops at the disposal of the
authorities, for the purpose of keeping the roads open, from the hordes
of deserters who mostly composed these lawless bands; and even in the
immediate vicinity of Mexico itself, highway robberies and murder were
of daily occurrence. I was not convinced, although silenced, by the
plausible courtesy of the Administrador.

Early on the morning of the 26th of May, I shook hands with my kind army
friends, newly capped pistols, and vaulted into the saddle. _Estamos
listos_--all right--said the post guide, as he succeeded in tightening
the circingles, by kicking the beasts under the belly--_Vamanos_.
Pulperias and tiendas were being opened; leperos taking their morning's
dram of _pulqae_; closely veiled faces and sombre gowns were moving to
mass; patrols of horse and foot, returning drowsily to barracks;
markets thronged; jackasses trumpetting their morning's note of
thanksgiving, and the great city awaking again into hum and bustle;
while, as the sun was climbing over the white-robed volcanoes that
looked down upon the beautiful valley, we passed the long lines of
streets and garita, gained the main road, when our pace quickened, and
on we hurried along the branching shade of the avenues. Pell mell we
went through droves of mules, at times driving a group of perverse
donkeys right and left with the impetus of a catapult--maybe, one or
more over, in a smoke from their own cargoes of charcoal, wood, or
vegetables;--and long before the arrieros could right the little brutes
on their legs, with _arres_ and blows--in readiness to treat us with
curses--