ruggles in the oft-repeated internal
revolutions of the Republic, it has little to recommend it. The council
and state chambers face the Square; they are decorated with handsome
furniture and crimson hangings to correspond; lighted by noble windows,
from floor to the lofty ceilings, with heavy stone balconies outside. In
the adjoining building is the National Museum, where, in a court-yard,
surrounded by quantities of feathers, belts, cloaks, and other Indian
ornaments, was the famous sacrificial stone, that once graced the
ancient Temple of the Aztec monarchs. It is a horizontal convex wheel
of granite, curiously carved in hieroglyphics on the perimeter, and
having a hole and gutter on top, that received the victim's head and
carried off the blood. In the _patio_ of the same edifice, was a huge,
ungainly colossal statue in bronze, of Philip of Spain--not worthy a
second glance.

Undoubtedly I saw Mexico at disadvantage; and indeed I took more
pleasure in leaning over the stone balustrades of the Palace, regarding
the different regiments going through their evolutions--particularly the
Seventh Infantry--who impressed me so deeply with their soldierly
bearing, and national pride for the hard battles they had fought and
gallantly won, as to leave no room for admiration of the curiosities to
be seen of a conquered city. Indeed Mexico was almost entirely
Americanized. The great fondas and sociedads were all under the dominion
of Yankees--with Yankee ice, Yankee drinks, signs, manners, habits, and
customs, as if the city had been from time immemorial Yankeefied all
over, instead of being only occupied a short twelvemonth by the troops.
I usually dined in one of these large establishments, and excepting the
hall of the eating saloon--from patios to attics--on every angle of the
broad flights of stairs, crowded one beside the other, were
gaming-tables of every kind and description. Such a condensed essence of
worldly hell, in all its glaring, disgusting frightfulness, never
existed. And there never were lack of players either--no! not one but
was closely surrounded by officers and soldiers--blacklegs and villains
of all sorts--betting uncommonly high, too--many of the banks having
sixty and eighty thousand dollars in gold alone on the tables--and once
I saw a common soldier stake and win two hundred ounces at a single bet.
Other saloons were filled with Mexican girls, with music and dancing,
attended by every species of vice,