able in the walls of
S. Nicolo. There are several ruined churches which appear to be of the
thirteenth or fourteenth centuries. Some of them have been altered at a
later period, but they contain nothing of first-rate interest. Nona had
sixteen in the Middle Ages. We walked out to S. Nicolo, an early church,
which crowns a hillock thickly sown with asphodels in blossom, some
little distance from the road and a mile or so from Nona. It is
cruciform in plan, with apsidal terminations to three arms, the west
being square, and having a door with a semicircular tympanum above it
internally. Squinches in the angles serve as transition to the semi-dome
which covers each arm. From the pilasters between the apses cross arches
spring beneath a domical vault with a pendant at their intersection; in
the left pilaster by the apse is a recess. The central tower is
octagonal and turreted; beneath the apse eaves are rough corbels, the
door has a semicircular tympanum externally, little brackets supporting
nothing, and the jambs and lintel are put together rather as if the
material were wood. The church is probably of the eleventh century.

Borgo Erizzo, an Albanian village, lies but a short distance from Zara.
In the eighteenth century the atrocities of Mehmed Begovich, pasha of
Albania, perpetrated on the Catholics, being very great, some of them
emigrated, seeking the protection of Vincenzo Zmajevich, bishop of
Antivari, who was living at his native city of Perasto. A little later
(1726) he became archbishop of Zara, and brought twenty-seven families
of Albanians with him, recommending them to the protection of Count
Erizzo, commandant of the fortress, who assigned them land near the
city, where they flourished and increased. There are now about 3,000 of
them. The church, which appears to be in a dangerous condition, was
built for them by Zmajevich. The girls work in the factories till they
marry, after which they remain at home. The men are agriculturists, and
some own fields and vineyards seven or eight miles away, to which they
walk or go in carts. The village is dirty and not very picturesque. They
get their drinking-water from the Kaiser Brunnen, a spring covered with
a dome close to the sea, said to be a Roman erection. Sailors also water
there. Before the aqueduct was restored, in years of drought Zara had to
import water, and in 1828, 1834, and 1835 it was brought from the Kerka
by Scardona.

Zara Vecchia, formerly Alba or Be