pictures; they were big men of fine appearance, with
religious earnestness in their faces. In the middle, under a silken
canopy with gold fringes, a higher ecclesiastic walked, a venerable
figure, with long silver hair and beard, bearing the most holy object
and looking like a high-priest, surrounded as he was with clouds of
incense. After the priests came a long line of men in country costume,
powerful figures with flashing eyes, and faces full of character. They
held themselves upright like soldiers, and bore large white tapers
fastened four together. The sides of the narrow streets were lined with
Roman Catholics who looked on with sympathetic interest at the religious
ceremonies of their fellow-citizens of a different creed, an example
which might be commended to sects nearer home.

The people are hospitable, and very generous, but proud, and, like the
Spaniards, easily moved both to acts of violence and kindness. There is
no nobility, the patrician families being either extinct or
impoverished, partly owing to a severe epidemic of smallpox which smote
the town in 1872. The men wear a ridiculous small red cap, like that
worn at Zara, but smaller, often requiring an elastic round the back of
the head to keep it on, and waistcoats and coats ornamented with large
silver buttons of filigree work (older examples of which are works of
art, but the modern mere articles of commerce). The collar is curious,
with a facing of red or black worsted, apparently intended to imitate
fur (shown in the drawing of the costume). The trousers are dark blue,
with a slit towards the ankle, laced up with silver wire, and strong
shoes are worn with turned-up toes covered with hide lacings. The women
have a white head-dress, a cloth twisted round and fastened to the hair
in the manner of that worn at Lussin Piccolo. One of the waiters at the
restaurant who came from Spalato, but whose side-whiskers stamped him as
an Austrian, told us he had been in Glasgow and other British towns--a
rather unusual thing with the men of his class, though many of the
sailors are acquainted with British ports. The dustmen reminded one of
the days of one's childhood when in England; they went round ringing a
bell and calling "Dust-ooh!" At the sound all kinds of refuse were
brought out to the cart, which went slowly along the narrow street.

Sebenico was the birthplace of the celebrated Nicolo Tommaseo, to whom a
statue has been erected in the public garden bel