tradition being that this rested here for three years and
seven months, from 1291 to 1294; and in a dark passage behind the
high-altar a room is still shown said to be a part of it.
The church contains a picture of the Madonna and Child, ascribed as
usual to S. Luke, of which a little copy hangs by the choir arch in the
aisle; the two heads and hands are painted. The rest is covered with
silver-gilt plates modelled in low relief to represent the drapery,
nimbi, &c. Near the high-altar are frescoes with Latin inscriptions, of
no great interest, also two great silver candlesticks and portions of
Turkish harness, gifts of the Emperor Leopold I. The pillars are hung
with the votive offerings of rescued mariners. The church has only one
aisle, to the north. At the west end is an organ gallery on slight
columns with fifteenth-century carving. The choir has a fine
seventeenth-century wrought-iron grille with two amorini, a crown and
heart, &c., interwoven with scrolls, gilded and painted. The beaten work
is mixed with scrolls of flat thin material between strong uprights and
cross pieces. At the height of the face of a kneeling figure is a row of
small balusters. The upper portion is painted white.
In front of the church is an avenue of horse-chestnuts, and on a spur of
hill to the left is the Castle of Tarsatto, once belonging to the
Frangipani, now in the possession of Count Nugent, and completely
restored. In the castle is a collection of statues from Minturnum, a
gift of Ferdinand I. of Naples to Field-Marshal Nugent. From it a flight
of steps conducts to a pleasant field-path which rounds the shoulder of
the next hill and brings one back to the steps by which the church is
reached. The view from the plateau is very extensive, the islands of
Veglia and Cherso, in conjunction with the spurs of Monte Maggiore,
seeming almost to enclose the sea, while to the south the Velebit range
towers, generally cloud-capped.
The church of SS. Vito and Modesto was built in 1631 after the pattern
of S. Maria della Salute. In the wall by the entrance is a cannon-ball,
a memento of the English bombardment of 1813. On the quays there is to
be seen much the same mixture of types and costumes as at Trieste. The
country people wear a black loose coat with sleeves, over a kind of
sweater which hangs below it; the trousers resemble broad breeches with
a bit of loose stocking showing above the shoe. The rawhide shoes are of
the same kind as th
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