ose worn at Grado, at Monte S. Angelo across the
water, and all over the country further south, pointed in shape and
turned up at the toes, generally brown, with the upper part covered with
lacing. On the men's heads are little caps, black, brown, or red.

While we were having dinner in the Piazza Adamich a military band came
and played two _morceaux_; after which they marched off to the
accompaniment of music, looking very picturesque, with the light from
candles in lanterns hanging from staves flashing from the brazen
instruments and lighting up the coloured uniforms against the dim
background of garden and distant house.

The islands of Cherso and Veglia divide the Quarrero into three
channels: that between Istria and Cherso, the Canale di Farasina;
between Cherso and Veglia, the Canale di Mezzo (becoming the Quarnerolo
further south); and between Veglia and the Croatian mainland, the Canale
di Maltempo or della Morlacca, in front of which the little island of S.
Marco lies. The scenery of the last-named channel is much finer than the
Quarnerolo, and its interest is enhanced because the steamer passes
Segna or Zengg, the rocky nest of the Uscocs, the pirates who were so
troublesome in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries; but its first
name, the Canal of Evil Weather, is an accurate description of what may
be expected, since here the "Bora" blows with the greatest fury, making
it the most dangerous part of the whole coast. There is scarcely enough
of interest in the town itself to make it worthy of a visit, since the
picturesque and horrible exploits of its savage inhabitants (which are
its chief title to fame) may be read in the histories of the Uscocs.
They were refugees from Bosnia and Herzegovina, driven out by the Turks;
the word "Scochi" in Slav meaning exiles or fugitives. Their first
establishment was at Clissa, near Spalato, under Pietro Crussich, lord
of Lupoglavo in Istria. From this place they made raids on the Turks,
who at last collected an army and besieged the place for a year. The
castellan was killed in a sortie, and the castle surrendered in 1537.
They then retired to Segna, where they were received and paid by the
Emperor. The original band numbered only five or six hundred, but they
had with them many assistants, Dalmatians banished by the Venetians or
escaped from the galleys, and brigands of other nations, as well as
indigenous camp-followers. At first they only attacked the Turks, more
or