m the bishop, the authorities, and the
proprietor. He had the earth swept off the piece which we saw, and there
was no grass growing just there. The patterns are interweavings rather
Roman in design, the colours used being black, red, rose-pink, and
white. The church is said to have been the first cathedral; later it
belonged to a Franciscan convent which was used as the palace of the
bishop some seventy years ago. Round the cloister were two stories of
rooms, with a curious chapter-house in the corner. The site is now laid
out as a garden, with pergolas and a terrace-walk looking over the sea;
amid these are still a good many architectural fragments lying about,
some of which appear to go back to the tenth century. Four boxes full of
such fragments were sent to the Museum of S. Donato at Zara without any
claim being made for expenses, but were refused.

One ought not to omit mentioning the chapel of the Campo Santo, which
has a strange facade with three great conventional shell forms above a
rose-window, and a carved architrave with Renaissance _motifs_ above
the door. It was restored in 1867; the adjoining ruinous building has
1657 over its door.

S. Pietro in Valle is some six miles from Arbe, and is as yet
undescribed. Signor Rismondo, whose kindness I have just referred to,
offered to drive us out to it, an attractive offer which I was
exceedingly sorry to have to decline; but the times of sailing of the
boats are not elastic, and it would have meant spending four days more
on the island, an amount of time which I could not spare. He also wanted
to take us to below Loparo, where he said the geological formations are
strange and impressive. The cliffs facing the mainland are riven into
detached pinnacles estimated to be as high as the campanile of the
cathedral, and the scenery is savage in the extreme.

Our second visit to Arbe was made from Zara, which we left in rather
stormy weather, the waves outside the harbour flashing with little white
caps, while flaws of rain constantly hid the island of Ugljan on the
other side of the channel. The boat was rather a small one, belonging to
the Zaratina company, with a crew which consisted of a captain, who also
acted as supercargo, an engineer, a stoker, a cook, one deck-hand, and a
cock. The cock's name was Nero, and he had voyaged with the boat for two
months (as the engineer testified) without suffering even from the most
tempestuous weather. There was an awning over