early in the morning when we arrived at Arbe the first time;
so early, in fact, that the innkeeper was still in bed and had to be
interviewed from his chamber-window, and we had to deposit our
belongings at the door before commencing our explorations breakfastless.
On this occasion we were unfortunate. The skull of S. Christopher was
exposed on the altar, but the shrine was locked up, and the _parroco_
had gone into the country to visit a sick man, with the key in his
pocket, while the ciborium was swathed in festival draperies. We
therefore determined to satisfy ourselves with a cursory inspection, and
arranged to return the next year; for the steamboats are not like
suburban trains, missing one of which merely means a slight delay. Many
of the islands have but one or two services in the week; and staying for
the next boat may derange the plan of a whole tour.

The city looks most attractive from the sea as one approaches. It
occupies a long tongue of land midway along the western coast, and the
walls drop into the water both towards the harbour and the open sea.
They are nearly complete in their circuit, but have lost their
battlements and some portions of their substance. There is a good deal
of ruin within them, which makes the foregrounds uninteresting and
squalid. To the west is a public garden planted with fir-trees, and
with seats here and there. Aloes grow plentifully on the rocks to the
south-west.

[Illustration: THE LANDING-PLACE, ARBE

_To face page 193_]

In the early Middle Ages Arbe was prosperous owing to its trade and its
position on the high-road between Venice and the East. The plague of
1456 depopulated it, and all the richer people fled except the bishop,
Johannes Scaffa, and five canons. In 1463 Bosniaks flying from the Turks
came to increase the population and were well received, but the town
never recovered its prosperity. The empty streets and ruined houses and
churches near the cathedral testify to the desolation. The style of the
houses is Venetian for the most part, as might be expected, since it was
the port of call for those going to Greece or the Holy Land. Some of
them are very interesting and beautiful. The quay has several fronting
on to it, specially a lofty tower-like building of the fourteenth
century with later windows and balconies inserted. Many marble coats of
arms may be seen here and there, and the windows and door-jambs often
have charming carved ornaments. The Palazzo Ne