e Frangipani, two of the towers being
within the bishop's garden. The sea washes the rocks on which they are
built, and in time of storm the spray flies over the curtain wall.
Our prowlings around the walls attracted the attention of two guards,
who, after following us for some time, stopped us to question our
proceedings. The production of the Statthalter's letter which I carried
with me satisfied them that we had no nefarious designs, and it was
returned to me with the remark (made rather regretfully, I thought) that
it was all "in order." Travellers will find it advantageous to obtain
some kind of "permit" if their tastes are likely to lead to the
exhibition of unusual curiosity in relation to buildings and their
surroundings.
[Illustration: VEGLIA, SHOWING THE CASTLE TOWERS]
The cathedral, erected in 1133 in thanksgiving for a great victory over
Corsairs gained with the assistance of Venice, was therefore dedicated
to S. Mark. It consists of nave and aisles with an apse of five sides of
an octagon, which bears the date of 1688. The nave arcade is
semicircular, the arches varying in height, some being stilted, and
rests upon sixteen columns of granite, Istrian stone, red marble of the
island, and pavonazzetto. Several are in more than one piece, one or two
are made up to the requisite height with another stone, and two are
octagonal. Most of them have but the slightest projection for base, the
level of the pavement having apparently been raised. Most of the caps
have Byzantine thistly acanthus worked with great use of the drill, one
has quaint gambolling beasts and birds within arched forms in place of
foliage, which show imitation of Oriental ornamental forms, and one,
which has hollows for inlays of squares and diamonds, bounded by the
leaf shapes, is exactly like one in the pergola of the director's house
at Salona, which came from the campanile, Spalato. There is a fine early
Renaissance choir-screen with an ambo at each side, made of the red
variegated marble of the island; an angel of white marble supports the
book-rest. To the north of this screen is a rather late Gothic chapel
with apse of three sides and lierne vaulting. It has octagonal wall
shafts and shields as bosses, with devices upon them, and the arms of
the Frangipani. The place of the altar still shows on the pavement, and
it has been suggested that the silver pala belonged to this chapel. Two
more chapels open from the south aisle through Vene
|