nd figures, and a fine cresting round the domical top. The curved
surfaces above and below the glass tube have scroll-work upon a blue
enamel ground, part of which has come away. In these places there is no
sign of pattern upon the silver, but only a general cross-patching
showing that the arabesques and other patterns were not soldered to the
ground beneath, but only arranged with the enamel flux before firing.
The architectural details are gilded, the rest is silver.
[Illustration: MONSTRANCE IN COLLEGGIATA, OSSERO
_To face page 184_]
There are some remains of Roman walls still traceable, between which and
the mediaeval walls is the site of a large seven-aisled church, perhaps a
pair of twin basilicas. Upon the ruins of the seventh aisle the present
church of S. Maria was erected, and within it the ancient bishop's
throne, constructed of fragments of ninth-century carved slabs, was
still preserved till a few years ago. It was only after persistent
inquiries that we found it in a store-shed with other fragments of
ninth-century carving and some Roman antiquities thought of little
importance, though the inscriptions and other marble fragments and the
stone funerary urns are in their company. In the show museum are Roman
fragments, lamps, Pansiana pottery stamps, bronze vessels and utensils,
iron fragments, glass phials, &c. On the hill, not far off, prehistoric
tombs with interesting objects have been found; but the greater part of
the finds have been sent to more important museums.
The sea-passage, which is crossed by a swing bridge, is called the
"Cavanella di Ossero"; through it a strong current runs. The island of
Cherso, the ancient Apsirtide, is a miniature of Monte Maggiore, with
some fine mountain scenery in it, and a curious fresh-water lake, the
surface of which is only 50 ft. above sea-level, though it is 225 ft.
deep in some parts. The finest mountain scenery is near Smergo, where
the rock rises sheer from the water to the height of 1,000 ft. Here is
the "Dirupo di Smergo," a cave with a domed top. At one time the sea
broke into it, laying bare the interior, which is like a giant
amphitheatre with ribbed roof and sides. The fragments then detached lie
at the foot of the rock, making a wall between the sea and the cave. The
city of Cherso is best reached from Pola or Fiume. It lies at the head
of a winding inlet, protected by a round tower at the point, a relic of
the fortifications of an earlier perio
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