in which the Italians are
in the majority. It lies at the north-eastern end of the Bay of the
Quarnero, and is the chief seaport of Hungary, to which it has belonged
in the main since the beginning of the twelfth century; and permanently
since 1870. Though it was a thriving town in the Middle Ages, and
existed in Roman times, there is very little to be seen older than the
period of the late Renaissance. It is a busy modern town, and for the
archaeologist is merely a convenient place of departure for other more
interesting sites, though there is some picturesqueness of costume and
situation about it; and the Englishman is pleased to see many ships with
the national flag, and to know that one of the great industries of the
place is the Whitehead torpedo factory. The Tarsia, as the Rjeka was
called, gave the name of Tarsatica to the ancient Liburnian city. The
Romans built a castle on the bank of the stream to rein in the ferocious
Gepids. Round this castle the ancient Tarsatica grew up. The only Roman
remains existing are: a triumphal arch said to have been erected in
honour of the Emperor Claudius II., Gothicus (268-270), which resembles
the Arco di Riccardo, Trieste, in its situation on the side of the hill
in the old city, but is much less ornamented and more dilapidated; some
remains of Roman construction in the Castle of the Frangipani; and at
the top of the hill above the Porto di Martinschizza (called "Solin"),
the remains of another Roman fortress, which protected the city to the
east, commanding the ravine of La Draga, a mile and a half from
Tarsatto. Tarsatica was destroyed in 799 by Charlemagne.

[Illustration: STALL ON THE WINE-QUAY, FIUME]

The wine-quay, by the Porto Canale, Fiumara, is shaded pleasantly with
trees, and always busy with its own particular trade, supplemented by
stalls at which various goods are offered for sale. Close by is a
street, which in the spring is bright with Judas-trees in flower. The
ravine down which the stream flows has always been the boundary of the
Croatian kingdom. On the further side is the ascent of 410 steps to the
pilgrimage church of the Madonna del Tarsatto, on one of the spurs of
the hills which surround the city; an ascent which devout pilgrims are
said to have negotiated on their knees. A chronogram over the church
door gives the date 1730, but it was founded in 1453 by one of the
Frangipani counts on the site once occupied by the Nazareth House now at
Loreto, the