was the same as before, but the houses were built to the roof of
the cave, and were rounded at the corners. Peculiar round loop-holes
were seen here, too. Eight of them formed a horizontal line, and one
extra hole was a little higher up. A track could be made out at certain
places along the river, but the country was very lonely. In the course
of several days only six Indian families were encountered, and two of
those lived here only temporarily. We also met five stray Indians that
had come down from the highlands to fetch bamboo reeds for arrows,
etc. It was quite pleasant to meet somebody now and then, although,
unfortunately, no one had anything to sell, except a few small fish,
the people being themselves as hard up for food as we were. We
carried our little metate on which we ground corn for our meals,
but we found it very difficult on this trip of four weeks' duration
to secure from day to day corn enough to satisfy our wants. One item
in our menu, new to me, but common throughout northern Mexico, was
really excellent when we could procure the very simple material from
which it was made, namely squash-seeds. These were ground very fine
and boiled in a saucepan. This dish, which is of Tarahumare origin,
is called pipian, and looks like curds. Mixed with a little chile it
is very palatable, and in this period of considerable privation it
was the only food I really enjoyed.

But such luxuries were not served every day. Far from it. For several
days in succession we had nothing but corn-cakes and water. Therefore
our joy was great when at last we one day espied some sheep on the
other side of the river. They belonged to a woman who watched them
herself, while wintering among the rocks with her herd of about a
dozen sheep and goats. I sent my interpreter over to make a bargain
for one of the animals, and as he did not return after a reasonable
lapse of time, and as we were all hungry, I went across the river
myself to see the dashing widow. I found my man .still bargaining,
lying on the ground stretched out on his stomach and resting his head
on his hands. She was grinding corn on the metate and seemed to pay
little attention to either of us, but her personal attractiveness
at once impressed me. She was still in her best years and had fine
bright eyes. A ribbon dyed with the native yellow dye from lichens
ran through the braids of her hair, and was marvellously becoming
to her almost olive complexion. I could not help