il; and while we
guarded the mules, a man was sent back to look for the main track,
which luckily was found after a short time. The worst of it was
that the animals had to be led back one by one, along the side of a
dangerous precipice, and it was a wonder that none of them rolled down
the steep sides. I was glad when we could safely proceed on our way.

It is disagreeable to travel with a pack-train after nightfall, even
on a moonlight night like this, but particularly when without a guide
and on an unfamiliar track. The journey seems interminable. The fear
of losing one's road, or having something happen to the animals,
or dropping some part of the pack; the uncertainty regarding what
camping-place one may find; and the anxiety lest the backs of the
animals may become sore, while the men are getting hungry and in as
bad a temper as one's self,--all tend to demonstrate the advisability
of going into camp when the sun is still well above the horizon.

Another harassing consideration, which, however, does not apply to
this part of the country, is the possibility of arousing a suspicion
that pack-trains which travel at night carry treasures.

After a continuous journey of ten hours and a half we arrived without
further mishaps at Lajas at 9.30 P.M., the middle of the night in
that part of the world. One of my men, who had a habit of singing
whenever we entered a village, had been ordered to keep silent, that
the people in this lonely place, susceptible as they are, might not
become alarmed at the sudden arrival of such a party.

A few houses lay scattered about in the dim moonlight, and I with
my chief man rode ahead. "Ave Maria!" called out Catalino, knocking
at the door of a hut. "God give you a good night," he continued,
but there was no response. After having in this way tried several
huts, we at last succeeded in getting an answer, and learned where
Crescencio Ruiz lived, to whom the priest in Pueblo Nuevo had given
me a letter of introduction, and who was a kind of secretary to the
Indians. We now directed our steps toward his house, aroused him from
his slumbers, and after some parleying brought him to the door. He
was a small-statured, kindly-looking man, a half-caste, who displayed
a friendly manner and showed me where I could camp near his house. As
he was very talkative, it was late in the night before I could retire.

The name of the village is San Francisco de Lajas, the word _laja_
(flat stone) referrin