g to stones which abound in the neighbourhood. The
Indian name, "Eityam," has the same meaning. The next day many Indians
came fearlessly and curiously up to see me. They wore the ordinary
dress of the working-class of Mexico, except that their flat straw hats
were trimmed with black and red woollen ribbons and some flowers. The
women had flowers and leaves in their hair, which they wore in Mexican
fashion, in two braids. Some of the men had their hair put up in one
braid and fastened at the end with a narrow hair-ribbon, but most of
them had it cut short. I was surprised to see many baldheaded men,
some not over thirty years old. Surely it must be more healthy for
the hair to be worn long.

Fortunately for me the Indians had just come into the pueblo for a week
to repair the old adobe church, in which work Don Crescencio greatly
assisted them. This man, nine years ago, was sent to the place as a
teacher by the Mexican authorities in Durango. On his arrival he was
met at the old curato by 140 children, none of whom had ever seen
a Mexican before, and, of course, they did not understand a word of
Spanish. They soon went back to their homes, and five days afterward
the preceptor was left without a pupil. He induced the parents to make
the children return, and 48 came back. Out of these, five remained
with him for six months. At the close of that period they were able
to read and to write their names. Of late years, however, teaching
has been given up altogether. The fact is that the Indians do not
want schools, "because," as an intelligent Huichol afterward told me,
"our sons lose their native tongue and their ancient beliefs. When
they go to school, they do not want to worship the Sun and the Water
any more." The white teacher's aim should be to incite the desire for
instruction rather than to force his pupils to listen to his teachings;
not to destroy the Indian's mental world, but to clear it and raise
it into the sphere of civilisation.

But Don Crescencio remained with the Indians as their "secretary"
(escribano), attending to whatever correspondence they had with the
authorities, and gradually becoming their factotum and adviser. As
he was an honourable and straightforward man, his influence was all
for their good. To swell his meagre income, he carries on a small
trade, going twice a year to Durango to replenish his stores;
and so invaluable has he become to the Indians that they send,
some men along with him to