er dared to go down to the lowlands, because
"he owed so many dead," as the saying goes. A few years before my
visit, an American had been killed and robbed in the vicinity, and
his countrymen in Chihuahua offered a reward for the apprehension of
the murderer, dead or alive. Don Teodoro knew that a certain friend
of his had perpetrated the crime, and in order to secure the reward
he invited him to his house and shot him down in cold blood.

I arrived safely in Guadalupe y Calvo, a once flourishing place, but
now quite dead, since the mines have ceased to be worked. There are
large Mexican ranches southeast of the town, and whatever Tarahumares
live hereabout are servants of the Mexicans and frequently intermarry
with the Tepehuanes.

I thus traversed from north to south the country over which the
Tarahumares once held sway. To-day we find this tribe, approximately,
between Guadalupe y Calvo and Temosachic; roughly speaking, between
the twenty-sixth and twenty-ninth degrees northern latitude.

Civilisation, as brought to the Tarahumare, is not fraught with
benefits for him. It rudely shakes the columns of the temple of
his religion. The Mexican Central Railroad crushes his sacred plants
without thought of its anger, which is vented on the poor Tarahumare by
sending him bad years and ill-luck. While the Indians deny themselves
the pleasure of smoking tobacco in the daytime for fear of offending
the sun with the smoke, the white men's furnaces and engines belch
forth black clouds of smoke day after day, keeping the people out
of the sight of Tara Dios, and thus preventing him from guarding
them. In the engine itself they see the Devil with a long tongue and
a big beard.

Worse than that, the foot of civilisation destroys his home; for the
whites draw the boundary line of his country closer and closer. The
better class of Mexicans keep to themselves, and seldom, if ever,
bother about the Indians at their doors, whose mode of living and
way of thinking are so different from their own. The class of whites
on the borderland of such civilisation as the Tarahumare comes in
contact with is not the kind that will or can improve him, being
ignorant and unscrupulous. The Indian civilised by them is a very
unpleasant person to deal with. He has learned to cheat and to steal,
and he no longer carries out his contracts and agreements. Having
learned the value of money, his greed is awakened, and he begins to
look out only for his