reddish legs; a young one
smooth and black. Fresh killed, the eyes are full and clear, and the
feet moist. When it has been kept too long, the parts about the vent
have a greenish appearance.

20. Common Domestic Fowls,

when young, have the legs and combs smooth; when old these parts are
rough, and on the breast long hairs are found when the feathers axe
plucked off: these hairs must be removed by singeing. Fowls and
chickens should be plump on the breast, fat on the back, and
white-legged.

21. Geese.

The bills and feet are red when old, yellow when young. Fresh killed,
the feet are pliable, but they get stiff when the birds are kept too
long. Geese are called green when they are only two or three months
old.

22. Ducks.

Choose them with supple feet and hard plump breasts. Tame ducks have
yellow feet, wild ones red.

23. Pigeons

are very indifferent food when they are kept too long. Suppleness of
the feet shows them to be young; the flesh is flaccid when they are
getting bad from keeping. Tame pigeons are larger than wild pigeons,
but not so large as the wood pigeon.

24. Hares and Rabbits

when old, have the haunches thick, the ears dry and tough, and the
claws blunt and ragged. A young hare has claws smooth and sharp, ears
that easily tear, and a narrow cleft in the lip. A leveret is
distinguished from a hare by a knob or small bone near the foot.

25. Partridges,

when young, have yellowish legs and dark-coloured bills. Old
partridges are very indifferent eating.

26. Woodcocks and Snipes,

when old, have the feet thick and hard; when these are soft and
tender, they are both young and fresh killed. When their bills become
moist, and their throats muddy, they have been too long killed.

(See FOOD IN SEASON, Pars. 30--42.)

27. Names and Situations of the Various Joints.

28. Meats.

In different parts of the kingdom the method of cutting up carcases
varies. That which we describe below is the most general, and is known
as the English method.

i. Beef.

Fore Quarter Fore rib (five ribs);
middle rib (four ribs);
chuck (three ribs).
Shoulder piece (top of fore leg);
brisket (lower or belly part of the ribs);
clod (fore shoulder blade);
neck;