ere _three!_ How was this?" The answer is--"He bought
two mackerel, and one _smelt!_" Those who envy him his bargain need
not care about the following rules; but to others they will be
valuable:

2. Mackerel

must be perfectly fresh, or it is a very indifferent fish; it will
neither bear carriage, nor being kept many hours out of the water. The
firmness of the flesh and the clearness of the eyes must be the
criteria of fresh mackerel, as they are of all other fish.

3. Turbot, and all flat white fish,

are rigid and firm when fresh; the under side should be of a rich
cream colour. When out of season, or too long kept, this becomes a
bluish white, and the flesh soft and flaccid. A clear bright eye in
any fish is also a mark of its being fresh and good.

4. Cod

is known to be fresh by the rigidity of the muscles (or flesh), the
redness of the gills, and clearness of the eyes. Crimping much
improves this fish.

5. Salmon.

The flavour and excellence of this fish depend upon its freshness and
the shortness of time since it was caught; for no method can
completely preserve the delicate flavour that salmon has when just
taken out of the water. A great deal of what is brought to London has
been packed in ice, and comes from the Scotch and Irish rivers, and,
though perfectly fresh, is not quite equal to salmon from English
streams.

6. Herrings

should be eaten when very fresh; and, like mackerel, will not remain
good many hours after they are caught. But they are excellent,
especially for breakfast relishes, either salted, split, dried, and
peppered, or pickled. Mackerel are very good when prepared in either
of these ways.

7. Fresh Water Fish.

The remarks as to firmness and clear fresh eyes apply to this variety
of fish, of which there are carp, tench, pike, perch, &c.

8. Lobsters

recently caught, have always some remains of muscular action in the
claws, which may be excited by pressing the eyes with the finger; when
this cannot be produced, the lobster must have been too long kept.
When boiled, the tail preserves its elasticity if fresh, but loses it
as soon as it becomes stale. The heaviest lobsters are the best; when
light they are watery and poor. Hen lobsters may generally be known by
the spawn, or by the breadth of the "flap."

9. Crab and Crayfish

must be chosen by observations similar to those given abov