round Mount Sila[832].

[Footnote 831: 'Cum apud rerum Dominum solemni more pranderemus.']

[Footnote 832: 'Silanum.' Mount Sila is a range of hills in Calabria
immediately to the north of Squillace, forty miles from north to
south, and twenty miles from east to west, and occupying the whole of
the projecting portion of the south-east side of Italy between the
Gulf of Squillace and the Bay of Taranto. The highest peaks, which are
about 5,700 feet high, are covered with snow during half the year. It
is said that from the beginning of June till far on into October,
15,000 head of cattle and 150,000 sheep, besides horses and mules,
graze in these uplands. (See Gael-Fells: Unter Italien, p. 721.)]

'The _cheese_, which retains in its pores the milk which has been
collected there, recalls by its taste the fragrant herbs upon which
the cattle have fed; by its texture it reminds us of the softness of
oil, from which it differs in colour by its snowy whiteness. Having
been carefully pressed into a wide cask and hardened therein, it
retains permanently the beautiful round shape which has thus been
given to it[833].

[Footnote 833: From the description of Cassiodorus, it seems to have
been a kind of cream cheese.]

'The _wine_, to which Antiquity gave the name of praise, Palmatiana,
must be selected not of a rough but sweet kind[834]. Though last [in
geographical position] among the wines of Bruttii, it is by general
opinion accounted the best, equal to that of Gaza, similar to the
Sabine, moderately thick, strong, brisk, of conspicuous whiteness,
distinguished by the fine aroma, of which a pleasant after-taste is
perceived by the drinker[835]. It constrains loosened bowels, dries up
moist wounds, and refreshes the weary breast.

[Footnote 834: 'Non stipsi asperum sed gratum suavitate perquire.' The
same peculiar word, _stipsis_, which we had in Letter xii. 4. What
meaning are we to assign to the word?]

[Footnote 835: 'Magnis odoribus singulare:--quod ita redolet ore
ructatum ut merito illi a palma nomen videatur impositum.']

'Let it be your care to provide as speedily as possible a stock of
both these products of our country, and send them in ships to the
Royal residence. For a temporary supply we have drawn on our own
cellars, but we look to you to choose specimens of the genuine quality
for the King. We cannot be deceived, who retain the true taste in our
patriotic memory; and at your peril will you provide any infe