ery
ignorant; none could write or read, and their ideas respecting religion
were anything but satisfactory, most professing a perfect indifference.
I afterwards went into a bookseller's shop, and made enquiries respecting
the demand for literature, which he informed me was small. I produced
our 24mo edition of the New Testament in Spanish, and asked the
bookseller whether he thought a book of that description would sell in
Cadiz. He said it was exceedingly beautiful, both in type and paper, but
it was a work not sought after, and very little known. I did not pursue
my enquiries in other shops, for I reflected that I was not very likely
to receive a very favourable opinion from booksellers respecting a
publication in which they had no interest. I had, moreover, but two or
three copies of the New Testament with me, and could not have supplied
them had they given me an order.

That night I became very unwell, and was apprehending that I had been
seized with the cholera, as the symptoms of my complaint were very
similar to those which accompany that disorder. I was for some time in
most acute pain, and terribly sick; I drank oil mixed with brandy, and in
some degree recovered, and for the two succeeding days was very feeble,
and able to undertake nothing. This attack was the cause of my not
writing to you from Cadiz as I had fully intended.

Early on the 24th I embarked for Seville in the small Spanish steamer the
_Betis_. The morning was wet, and the aspect of nature was enveloped in
a dense mist, which prevented my observing surrounding objects. After
proceeding about six leagues, we reached the north-eastern extremity of
the bay of Cadiz, and passed by Saint Lucar, an ancient town close by
where the Guadalquivir disembogues itself. The mist suddenly
disappeared, and the sun of Spain burst forth in full brilliancy,
enlivening all around, and particularly myself, who had till then been
lying on the deck in a dull melancholy stupor. We entered the mouth of
the 'Great River,' for that is the English translation of _Qued al
Kiber_, as the Moors designated the ancient Betis. We came to anchor for
a few minutes at a little village called Bonanca, at the extremity of the
first reach of the river, where we received several passengers, and again
proceeded. There is not much in the appearance of the Guadalquivir to
interest the traveller: the banks are low and destitute of trees, the
adjacent country is flat, and only