lf of Spain passes through the hands of the Maragatos,
whose fidelity to their trust is such that no one accustomed to employ
them would hesitate to entrust them with the transport of a ton of
treasure from the sea of Biscay to Madrid, knowing well that it would not
be their fault were it not delivered safe and undiminished even of a
grain, and that bold must be the thieves who would seek to wrest it from
the far-feared Maragatos, who would cling to it whilst they could stand,
and would cover it with their bodies when they fell in the act of loading
or discharging their long carbines.

But they are far from being disinterested, and if they are the most
trustworthy of all the _arrieros_ of Spain, they in general demand for
the transport of articles a sum at least double of what others of the
trade would esteem a reasonable recompense. By this means they
accumulate large sums of money, notwithstanding that they indulge
themselves in a far superior fare to that which contents in general the
parsimonious Spaniard--another argument in favour of their pure Gothic
descent; for the Maragatos, like true men of the north, delight in
swilling liquors and battening upon gross and luscious meats, which help
to swell out their tall and goodly figures. Many of them have died
possessed of considerable riches, part of which they have not
unfrequently bequeathed to the erection or embellishment of religious
houses. On the east end of the cathedral of Astorga, which towers over
the lofty and precipitous wall, a colossal figure of lead may be seen on
the roof. It is the statue of a Maragato carrier, who endowed the
cathedral with a large sum. He is in his national dress, but his head is
averted from the land of his fathers, and whilst he waves in his hand a
species of flag, he seems to be summoning his race from their unfruitful
region to other climes where a richer field is open to their industry and
enterprise.

I spoke to several of these men respecting the all-important subject of
religion; but 'I found their hearts blunted, and with their ears they
heard heavily, and their eyes were closed.' There was one in particular
to whom I showed the New Testament and addressed for a considerable time.
He listened, or seemed to listen, patiently, taking occasional copious
draughts from an immense jug of whitish wine which stood between his
knees. After I had concluded, he said: 'To-morrow I set out for Lugo,
whither I am told yourself ar