during the greatest
part of it we had to toil up and down mountain gorges and ravines, to
force our way through bushes and thickets, and to wade rivulets and
torrents swollen by the rain, which descended continually; our guide
proved perfectly ignorant of the country, and we had to bribe various
peasants to accompany us, though we incurred great risk by so doing of
being conducted to some den of thieves, and stripped and murdered. At
Ribadeo we procured a fresh horse and guide, and continued our way to
Oviedo, encountering still greater difficulties, the ground being still
more rugged and broken than that which we had previously passed over. My
own horse rolled down a precipice, and was much maimed, whilst that of
the guide was so worn out by the time he reached Gijon, four leagues from
Oviedo, that he foundered. As for Antonio and myself, we arrived
barefooted and bleeding, for I need scarcely say that during all this
journey, which amounted at least to 130 miles, we went on foot, the poor
horses being scarcely able to carry our books and baggage.

I am now by the blessing of the Almighty in the city of Oviedo, the
capital of the Asturias, although at an unpropitious season, for the bray
of war is at the gate, and there is the cry of the captains and the
shouting. Castile is at the present time in the hands of the Carlists,
who have captured and plundered Valladolid, in much the same manner as
they did Segovia. They are every day expected to march on this place, in
which case they will probably experience an obstinate resistance, very
excellent redoubts having been erected, and several of the convents
strongly fortified, especially that of Santa Clara de la Vega. All minds
here are at present in a state of feverish anxiety and suspense, more
especially as no intelligence at present arrives from Madrid, which by
the last accounts was beleaguered by the bands of Cabrera, Palillos, and
Orejita.--But I am interrupted, and I lay down my pen.

A strange adventure has just occurred to me. I am in the ancient town of
Oviedo, in a very large, scantily furnished and remote room of an ancient
_posada_, formerly a palace of the Counts of Santa Cruz. It is past ten
at night and the rain is descending in torrents. I ceased writing on
hearing numerous footsteps ascending the creaking stairs which lead to my
apartment--the door was flung open, and in walked nine men of tall
stature, marshalled by a little hunch-backed persona