, and seemed to be flung
on in confusion. We were spent with heat and thirst, and sitting down on
a stone bench I entreated a woman to give us a little water. The woman
said she would, but added that she expected to be paid for it. My Greek
on hearing this burst into horrid execrations, and speaking Greek,
Turkish and Spanish invoked the vengeance of the _Panhagia_ on the
heartless woman, saying 'If I were to offer a Mahometan gold for a
draught of water, he would dash it in my face; and you are a Catholic
with the stream running at your door.' I told him to be silent, and
giving the woman two _cuartos_ repeated my request; whereupon she took a
pitcher, and, going to the stream, filled it with water. It tasted muddy
and disagreeable, but it drowned the fever which was devouring me.

We again mounted and proceeded on our way, which for a considerable
distance lay along the margin of the stream, which now fell in small
cataracts, now brawled over stones, and at other times ran dark and
silent through deep pools overhung with tall willows--pools which seemed
to abound with the finny tribe, for huge trout frequently sprang from the
water catching the brilliant fly which skimmed along its deceitful
surface. How delightful! The sun was rolling high in the firmament,
casting from its girdle of fire the most glorious rays, so that the
atmosphere was flickering with their splendour; but their fierceness was
either warded off by the shadow of the trees or rendered innocuous either
by the refreshing coolness which rose from the waters or by the gentle
breezes which murmured at intervals over the meadows 'fanning the cheek
or raising the hair' of the wanderer. The hills gradually receded, till
at last we entered a plain where tall grass was undulating, and mighty
chestnut-trees in full blossom spread their giant and umbrageous boughs.
Beneath many stood cars, the tired oxen prostrate on the ground, the
cross-bar of the pole which they support pressing heavily on their heads,
whilst their drivers were either employed in cooking or were enjoying a
delicious _siesta_ in the grass and shade. I went up to one of the
largest of these groups and demanded of the individuals whether they were
in need of the Testament of Jesus Christ. They stared at one another and
then at me, till at last a young man who was dandling a long gun in his
hands as he reclined demanded of me what it was, at the same time
enquiring whether I was a Catala