r contents, as the greatest dainty that can be presented. A
true-bred Frenchman dips his fingers, imbrowned with snuff, into his
plate filled with ragout: between every three mouthfuls, he produces
his snuff-box, and takes a fresh pinch, with the most graceful
gesticulations; then he displays his handkerchief, which may be termed
the flag of abomination, and, in the use of both, scatters his favours
among those who have the happiness to sit near him. It must be owned,
however, that a Frenchman will not drink out of a tankard, in which,
perhaps, a dozen of filthy mouths have flabbered, as is the custom in
England. Here every individual has his own gobelet, which stands before
him, and he helps himself occasionally with wine or water, or both,
which likewise stand upon the table. But I know no custom more beastly
than that of using water-glasses, in which polite company spirt, and
squirt, and spue the filthy scourings of their gums, under the eyes of
each other. I knew a lover cured of his passion, by seeing this nasty
cascade discharged from the mouth of his mistress. I don't doubt but I
shall live to see the day, when the hospitable custom of the antient
Aegyptians will be revived; then a conveniency will be placed behind
every chair in company, with a proper provision of waste paper, that
individuals may make themselves easy without parting company. I insist
upon it, that this practice would not be more indelicate than that
which is now in use. What then, you will say, must a man sit with his
chops and fingers up to the ears and knuckles in grease? No; let those
who cannot eat without defiling themselves, step into another room,
provided with basons and towels: but I think it would be better to
institute schools, where youth may learn to eat their victuals, without
daubing themselves, or giving offence to the eyes of one another.

The bourgeois of Boulogne have commonly soup and bouilli at noon, and a
roast, with a sallad, for supper; and at all their meals there is a
dessert of fruit. This indeed is the practice all over France. On
meagre days they eat fish, omelettes, fried beans, fricassees of eggs
and onions, and burnt cream. The tea which they drink in the afternoon
is rather boiled than infused; it is sweetened all together with coarse
sugar, and drank with an equal quantity of boiled milk.

We had the honour to be entertained the other day by our landlord, Mr.
B--, who spared no cost on this banquet, exhibited f