, at the Club Restaurant, and at most of the English and
American bars with which Paris is now studded, a chop is obtainable, and
a whisky and soda which is not poison; but I, personally, when _Pate de
Foie Gras_ becomes a horror, truffles a burden, and rich sauces an
abomination, go to one of the _Tavernes_, the Royale in the Rue Royale,
or the Anglais in the Rue Boissy d'Anglas (where you get Lucas's food at
lower prices than in the restaurant by the Madeleine), or into one of
the many houses of plain cookery on the boulevards, and order the
simplest and least greasy soup on the bill of fare, some plainly grilled
cutlets, and some green vegetables. A pint of the second or third claret
on the wine-card washes down this penitential repast. At Puloski's, an
uninviting-looking little establishment in the Rue St-Honore, I have
eaten excellent dishes of oysters cooked according to American methods,
and that dry hash which boarding-house keepers across the Atlantic are
supposed to serve perpetually to their paying guests, but which an
American abroad is always glad to meet. You will find a great variety of
oysters, Marennes, Ostendes, Zelandes, at Prunier's, in the Rue Duphot,
and the dishes of the house--soup, sole, steak--are all cooked with
oysters as a foundation, sauce, or garnish. Prunier's is the house at
which the travelling gourmet generally tastes his first snails, the
great Burgundian ones with striped shells, or the little gray fellows
from the champagne vineyards. If you eat Prunier's oysters you should
drink his white Burgundy. If you eat his snails, you should drink his
red wine, for he has some excellent red Burgundy.

Most travellers at least once in their lives go the round of Montmartre
and its Bohemian shows. I have dined with the great Fursy in the
restaurant attached to the Treteau de Tabarin, and was given good
substantial bourgeois cookery. I asked the singer of the "Chansons
Rosses" how it was that he, who girds at all things bourgeois and
commonplace, ran the restaurant on such simple and non-eccentric lines;
and he shrugged his shoulders, which I took to mean that you may trifle
with a man's intellect but not with his stomach. About two in the
morning, in the upstairs room at the Treteau, there is often some
amusement forward. Upstairs at the Rat Mort, you may dine in comfort
with _Soupe a l'Onion_ and _Tournedos Rat Mort_ in the menu; and at the
Abbaye de Theleme, and at the Restaurant Blanche in t