as a right to expect the _Caneton Rouennaise_ and
the _Sole Normande_ to be cooked to perfection; and outside the hotels,
some of which have excellent cooking, there is a restaurant, the
Francais, in the Rue Jacques le Lieur, a street which runs behind the
Hotel d'Angleterre, parallel to the Quai de la Bourse. Of course the
Rouen duck is not any particular breed of duck, though the good people
of Rouen will probably stone you if you assert this. It is simply a roan
duck. The rich sauce which forms part of the dish was, however, invented
at Rouen. The delights of the _Sole Normande_ I need not dilate on. A
good bottle of Burgundy is the best accompaniment to the duck. The
Restaurant de Paris, in the Rue de la Grosse Horloge, is a very cheap
restaurant, where you get a great deal to eat at dinner for 2 francs,
and where you will find the _Choux Farcies_ and other homely dishes of
Normandy as well as the excellent little cream cheeses of the country.
Crossing the Seine, one is in the land of cider and Pont l'Eveque
cheese. At Honfleur you will find a very good _table-d'hote_ at the
old-fashioned Cheval Blanc on the Quai; and at the Ferme St-Simeon up on
the hill, in beautifully wooded ground, there is to be obtained some
particularly good sparkling cider. Honfleur has a special reputation for
its shrimps and prawns.
Trouville Deauville
During the Trouville fortnight, when all the world descends upon
Trouville, the various big hotels and the Casino have more clients than
they really can cater for. At the Roches Noires one is likely to be kept
waiting for a table, and at the Casino a harassed waiter thrusts a red
mullet before one, when one has ordered a sole. The _moules_ of
Trouville are supposed to be particularly good, and also the fish. There
are _table-d'hote_ meals at the restaurants of the Helder and De la
Plage, the second being the cheaper of the two, and food is to be
obtained at the little Cafe Restaurant on the edge of the _promenade des
planches_. But Trouville in the season may be taken to be exiled Paris
in a fever, half as expensive again, and not half so "well done."
Of the little bathing-places immediately east of
Trouville--Houlgate-Beuzeval, Dives, Cabourg--there is little or nothing
to say. At Cabourg the Hotel des Ducs de Normandie has some kiosks with
a full view of the sea, where it is pleasant to breakfast, and the
Casino can always be taken for granted as a _pis aller_ at all these
little
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