beyond this the food is of the usual ordinary kind to be obtained in
most French towns of this size."
M. Roche, who made a little fortune in London in Old Compton Street, has
taken a little hotel near Granville, and as he learned cooking under
Frederic of the Tour d'Argent, he may be depended upon for an excellent
meal.
Breton Resorts
Of the land of butter and eggs I have not much to write. Correspondents
at St-Malo say a good word of the feeding both at the Hotel de l'Univers
and the Hotel du Centre et de la Paix; but I cannot speak of either of
these from personal knowledge, nor do I know anything of Dinard, though
it is said that the best cookery in the province is found there. Cancale
of course has its oyster-beds, and the esculent bivalve can be eaten
within sight of the mud-flat on which it erstwhile reposed. The one
restaurant in this part of the world for which every one has a good word
is that of Poulard Aine at Mont St-Michel, where there is a cheap
_table-d'hote_ and where a good meal _a la carte_ is also to be
obtained.
Artichokes, prawns, potatoes, _langouste_, eggs, lobsters, crabs, are
good all along the Breton coast; and at Quimper, at the Hotel de l'Epee,
you can--if you are in luck--get fresh sardines.
Here is a typical Breton menu, one of the meals at the Hotel des Bains
de Mer, Roscoff:--
Artichauts a l'Huile.
Pommes de terre a l'Huile.
Porc frais froid aux Cornichons.
Langouste Mayonnaise.
Canards aux Navets.
Omelette fines Herbes.
Filet aux Pommes.
Fromage a la Creme.
Fruits, biscuits, etc.
Cidre a discretion.
This is rather a terrible mass of food ranged in the strangest order,
but I insert it to show the traveller in Brittany that he need never
think his meal ended when he reaches the omelette, and that he had
better take a gargantuan appetite with him.
Apart from being a good homely place to stay at, La Villa Julia at Pont
Aven is worth a visit, for it has been the temporary home of many of the
greatest French painters, notably poor Bastien Lepage. They are
welcome, and are provided with studios, only being charged 5 francs a
day "pension." "The country is charming" writes an enthusiastic
correspondent "and one lingers there, and the food is excellent. Even
were it not, dear old Mlle. Julia is worth a journey. She is one of the
most delightful of French landladies. In the old inn th
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