u have tasted before, but not without its merits. Next, the
_Cotelettes d'Izard marine_ may interest you. The izard, or chamois of
the Pyrenees, has been _marine_ or soaked for some time in wine,
vinegar, bay leaves, and other herbs. It thus acquires a distinctive and
novel flavour. Don't forget the _Ragout_ and the _Poulet_, either
_chasseur_ or else _paysanne_; nor yet the _Pie de Mars_ if in season.
By way of fish you will always find the trout delicious, either fried or
else _a la meuniere_. (Don't miss the _alose_ if you are at Pau.)
Lastly, the Pyrenean _pates, Gibier_ and _Foie de Canard_, are justly
celebrated, and can more than hold their own in friendly and patriotic
rivalry with any of those purporting to come from Strasbourg or Nancy.

At first acquaintance you will not care much for _pic-a-pou_ or the wine
of the country, but with patience you may possibly learn to appreciate
the Vin de Jurancon. Tradition has it that Henri Quatre's nurses
preferred to give this form of nourishment rather than the Mellin's Food
of the time. Perhaps babies were differently constituted in those days.

In any case you will always be able to get a good bottle of claret,
bearing the name of some first-class Bordeaux firm, such as Johnson,
Barton Guestier, or Luze, etc. If you are lucky enough to obtain a glass
of genuine old Armagnac, you will probably rank it, as a liqueur, very
nearly as high as any cognac you have ever tasted.

A word of warning! Don't be too eager to order whisky and soda. The
"Scotch" is not of uniform quality.

So much for eatables and drinkables. A few hints now as to where you
might care to lunch or dine.

Pau

To begin with Pau. There is really a great artist there--a man whose
sole hobby is his kitchen, and who, if he chooses, can send you up a
dinner second to none. His name is Guichard. Go and have a talk with
him. Hear what he has to say on the _fond-de-cuisine_ theory. Let him
arrange your menu and await the result with confidence. That confidence
will not be misplaced.

For purely local dishes of the _cuisine-bourgeoise_ type, you might try
a meal at the Hotel de la Poste. But for general comfort the English
Club stands easily first. The coffee-room is run admirably, and as for
wine and cigars, they are as good as money can buy. A strong remark, eh?
But true, nevertheless. For a supper after the play you might give a
trial to the restaurant at the new Palais d'Hiver. Other restaurants are