| Dessert.

At the Zoological Gardens there is a good restaurant where one dines in
a balcony overlooking the beer-garden, in which a military band plays.

The oyster-cellars of Hamburg are noted for their excellent lunches.
_Bouillon_, cutlets, steaks, caviar, lachs, and other viands are served,
and English "porter," generally Combe's stout, is much drunk. Another
British production, "Chester" cheese, which is red Cheshire, is much in
demand. At supper in these cellars, and also in Berlin, caviar is much
in demand, the small black Baltic variety, not the Russian, which is
lighter in colour and larger in grain. A large pot of it is put on the
table in a bowl of ice, and your Hamburger, who is a good judge of
victuals as he is of drink, makes his supper of it.

The Rathskeller of Hamburg is in the modern Rathhaus, and is finely
decorated in "Alt-deutsch" style with frescoes and paintings by
well-known artists.

In the summer gardens down the Elbe, good wines are to be obtained; and
at the Faehrhaus at Blauenesse.

The Alster Cafe is very beautifully situated. It has three tiers of
rooms, and from its balconies one can look either landward or on to the
river, which at night, with the lights reflected in its water, is very
beautiful. The rooms of the cafe are decorated in the style of the
seventeenth century.

CHAPTER VII

BERLIN

Up-to-date restaurants--Supping-places--Military cafes--Night
restaurants.

Twenty years ago Berlin had no restaurant worthy of the name, now of
course they are plentiful; in many instances, however, showy paintings,
bad gilding, and heavy decorations seem to atone with a certain class of
the public for inferior _materiel_ and mediocre cookery.

The Monopole part of the Hotel-Restaurant L. Schaurte is first-rate, and
the set dinner for the price is as good as one could get anywhere. I
append an everyday menu which, for 5 marks, ought to satisfy the most
exacting customer. The second soup is a _Consomme_ with _quenelles_. The
fish dishes are _Sole Normande_ and _Turbot au Gratin_.

MENU.

From 2 P.M. to 9 P.M.

Haeringfilet nach Daube.
Mulligatawny-Suppe.
Kraftbruehe mit Einlage.
Seezungenfilet auf normaennische Art.
Steinbutt in Muscheln gratiniert.
Eng. Roast-beef.
Yorker Schinken in Burgunder.
Spinat.
Homard de Norvege. Sauce Ravigot