ase, but dine at the Bristol," was the advice
given me nigh a score of years ago when I first visited Vienna, and it
holds good now; indeed of late the "smart set" of Vienna has taken it
greatly into favour, and dines or sups there--the opera and plays begin
at 7 and end at 10--constantly. The prices, _a la carte_, are high, but
the cooking is good. Some specialities of the house are trout taken
alive from the aquarium, _Huitres Titania_, _Homard Cardinal_, _Poularde
Wladimir_, _Souffle King Edward VII._, _Oranges a l'Infante_.

Sacher's, in the hotel of that name just behind the Opera House, is very
well known and may be taken as the typical Viennese restaurant. It is
expensive, as indeed all the best Viennese restaurants are. It is not
quite so exclusively French in its cuisine as some of the other good
restaurants, and one of its _plats de jour_ is always a national dish,
as often as not a Hungarian one, so that by dining or breakfasting at
Sacher's one obtains some idea of what the real cookery of the dual
monarchy is like. Sacher's has a branch establishment in the Prater,
which is always in high favour with the Viennese.

Hartmann's (Leidinger's successor) in the Ring, is an excellent
restaurant to breakfast at. Here more of the national dishes--the
pickled veal, smoked sucking pig, stewed beef of various kinds,
Risi-Bisi, stewed pork--are to be found than at the restaurants
mentioned above. It is rather Bohemian, but only pleasantly so.

A good word may be said for the cooking at Meissl and Schadn's, in the
Kaernthenerstrass, and for that at the Reidhof.

The Stephan Keller (Cafe de l'Europe) in the Stephan Platz is a much
frequented cafe. It was originally an underground resort in the vaults
of St-Stephan, but it has risen to a higher sphere. This house is much
used by the colony of artists who also are to be found at Hartmann's,
Gause's, and the Rother Igel.

There are wine houses--Esterhazy Keller, for instance, where all classes
go to drink the Hungarian wines from the estates of Prince
Esterhazy--without number, and many of these have their speciality of
Itrian or Dalmatian wines. The summer resorts are mostly for the people
only; they are butterfly cafes opening in the summer and closing in the
winter, and if their _clientele_ deserts them there are only some
painted boards, tables, and benches to be carted away and a hedge to be
dug out; but in the Prater there are some more substantial
establishments