d.

In the summer there are two good restaurants on the islands, a few miles
from St. Petersburg, a sort of Richmond to St. Petersburg,--Felicien's,
a dependence of Cubat's; and Ernest's, a branch of the Cafe de l'Ours,
and managed by a brother of the proprietor. Both these have an excellent
cuisine and cellar, but the charges, especially at Felicien's, are
fairly extravagant. Bands of music and pretty gardens are features of
these restaurants, and Felicien's has a terrace on the river opposite
the Emperor's summer palace on the Island of Iliargin. They are both
practically closed during the winter, excepting by arrangement or when
sleighing parties make a rendezvous there.

There is also a German restaurant, Lemner's, at No. 18 Newsky Prospect,
where a good, cheap German repast can be procured for 1 rouble and drink
therewith, Russian pilsener or Munich beer.

Odessa

At the great port on the Black Sea the restaurant of the Hotel de
Londres Yastchouk is one of the best in Russia. Yastchouk was the name
of its late proprietor, who died in 1902, and was a real lover of good
cookery, enjoying nothing more than to serve an exquisite meal to a real
connoisseur. When any gourmet came to his restaurant, he would ask him
whether he came from the north or the south. If from the north, he would
suggest a real southern meal, with _Rougets a la Grec_ and the delicious
_Agneau de lait_, unobtainable in St. Petersburg, and a ragout of
_aubergines_ and tomatoes. If from the south, he would recommend a good
_Bortch_ with _petits pates_, or a slice of _Koulebiaka_, a great
pot-pie full of all kinds of good things, or some milk-white sucking-pig
covered with cream and horse-radish. Yastchouk has joined the majority,
but his restaurant is carried on in the same spirit as when he was
alive.

Warsaw

Bruehl's used to be the one good restaurant in the capital of Poland, but
the restaurant of the Bristol, new, clean, smart, and cheap, with a
French _maitre-d'hotel_ in command, is commended and recommended. When
the Bristol restaurant at night has all its electric lights in full glow
it looks like the magic cave into which Aladdin penetrated.

CHAPTER XV

TURKEY

Turkish dishes--Constantinople restaurants.

Constantinople

One of the hotels in the restaurant at which very good food is
obtainable is the Pera Palace; but the hundreds of dogs that are allowed
to infest the city for scavenging purposes, and who dis