urants which are not
attached to hotels, and Basle has quite a number of them, though the
interest attaching to most of them is due to the quaintness of the
buildings they are in or the fine view to be obtained from them rather
than from any particular excellence of cookery or any surprisingly good
cellar. The restaurant in the Kunsthalle, for instance, is ornamented by
some good wall paintings; and by the old bridge there is a restaurant
with a pleasant terrace overlooking the river. There is a good cellar at
the Schutzenhaus, and there is music and a pretty garden as an
attraction to take visitors out to the Summer Casino.

Of the Bern restaurants much the same is to be said as of the Basle
ones. Historical paintings are thought more of than the cook's
department. The Kornhauskeller, in the basement of the Kornhaus, is a
curious place and worth a visit for a meal. At the Schauzli, on a rise
opposite the town, from the terrace of which there is a splendid view
and where there is a summer theatre, there is a cafe-restaurant, and
another on the Garten, a hill whence another fine view is obtainable.

Geneva, for its size and importance, is the worst catered for capital in
Europe. Outside the hotel restaurants, none of which have attained any
special celebrity, there are but few restaurants, and those not of any
conspicuous merit. There is a restaurant in the noisy Kursaal, and two
in the Rue de Rhone, and most of the cafes on the Grand Quai are
feeding-places as well; but I never ate a dinner yet in Geneva--and I
have known the place man and boy, as they say in nautical melodrama, for
thirty-five years--that was worth remembering; and though the trout are
as palatable as they were when Cambaceres used to import them to France
for his suppers, I have never tasted the _Ombre Chevalier_ of which
Hayward wrote appreciatively. There are two little out-of-door
restaurants which are amusing to breakfast at during the summer. One is
in the Jardin Anglais and the other in the Jardin des Bastions. At each
a cheap _table-d'hote_ meal is served at little tables. There is also a
restaurant in the Park des Eaux Vives.

On the borders of the Lake of Geneva there are many good hotels, though
some of the best of them pick and choose their visitors, and writing
beforehand does not mean that a room will be found for a bachelor who
only intends to stay a few days. The better the hotel the better the
restaurant, and if the haughty hotel por